Regarding the service life and maintenance of the chain, I believe many cyclists will have questions, so we have compiled a simple Q&A to teach you how to judge the life of the chain and how to maintain it in normal times. Let's take a look.Q: How often should I change my chain?A: Take the Shimano 10/11 speed chain as an example. The original manufacturer recommends replacing the chain every two to three thousand kilometers. If the chain is still not stretched after this mileage, it is recommended to check it with a chain gauge every month thereafter. It can be replaced after stretching over 0.5mm.Q: If you don't want to change the chain so frequently, can it be used up to 10,000 kilometers?A: Of course, the chain is not so unbearable, but if you continue to use it after exceeding the recommended mileage, it may cause the cassette to accelerate wear and reduce the speed change performance.If you change the chain every two to three thousand kilometers, you can also extend the life of the cassette. Almost all the original cassettes can be used for 10,000 kilometers and then eliminated. However, if a chain is used for six to seven thousand kilometers and then replaced, it may be as result, the cassette is excessively worn. At this time, even if the chain is replaced with a new chain, the cassette may not be able to bite the chain and cause the chain to skip teeth.Q: How do I usually maintain the chain?A: If you don't often ride in a humid and muddy environment, you can generally use dry chain oil, oiling every two to three hundred kilometers, and make sure that every chain is lubricated. After oiling, remember to Wipe off excessive chain oil.If you must often ride in the rain or muddy environment, it is recommended to use wet chain oil. Because wet chain oil is more likely to be contaminated with dust, it is recommended to clean the chain before oiling it every time to be effective. Let the chain oil lubricate to the chain, and the frequency of oiling can be compared with dry chain oil.Q: Can I use WD-40 lubricant instead of chain oil?A: WD-40 is used for rust removal, and only 15% of the ingredients are mineral oil for lubrication. Besides that, it does not have any lubrication function, which is of no real help to the chain that needs to operate for a long time.But now WD-40 also has special maintenance products for bicycles, which also contain chain oil, so don't use WD-40 to lubricate your chain.
People often experience cramps when cycling. What exactly is cramping? Cramps are actually muscle spasms, which refer to the involuntary and strong contraction of muscles in a certain part of the body and the inability to relax quickly. The cramps most commonly occur on the back of the calf, the back of the thigh, and the front of the thigh. In addition, cramps may occur in small muscles including feet, fingers, arms, abdomen, and even between ribs.When cramping, the entire muscle becomes hard, and sometimes you can even see muscle twitching under the skin. The muscle cramps may disappear after a few seconds, or they may last for more than 15 minutes. If the original exercise is not handled in time or is interrupted, it may happen repeatedly in a short time.The real cause of cramps during exercise has not been determined so far, but it is generally believed that it is caused by many factors affecting each other. We have summarized some of the causes and treatments of leg cramps during cycling, and hope that the majority of riders should pay attention to protect themselves during the ride.Common causes of leg crampsInsufficient stretching and warm-up exercises before cycling;When rocking the bike, the action range is too large, and too much, the muscles are overstretched, which causes the accumulation of local acid metabolites and the blood supply is not smooth.Sudden changes in ambient temperatures, such as temperature, or jumping directly into cold water, excessively cause the leg to twitchLong-distance cycling for a long time loses too much salt without being replenished in time, and the body's electrolyte balance is brokenInappropriate cycling postures, such as the saddle angle is not adjusted properly, too low or too high, will burden the knees or the muscles of the upper and lower legs, especially if you maintain a posture or a gear ratio (gear) for a long time. Make the muscles tired, so you should adjust the cycling posture in time to relieve the fatigue of some muscles.Fatigue, sleep, lack of rest, or excessive rest lead to the accumulation of local acid metabolites, which can cause muscle cramps. For example, walking or exercising for too long, causing excessive fatigue of the lower limbs or insufficient rest and sleep can cause lactic acid to accumulate; too much rest for too much sleep, blood circulation slows down, and carbon dioxide accumulation.Emergency treatment of cramps during cyclingImmediately use non-twitching hands and feet to control the bike to stop on the side of the road, and shout for help from the riderLeave the bike, support the body with one foot in a half-squat state, stretch the cramped foot, and the rider will help him break his foot and press his leg.After the twitches are relieved, do some muscle stretching massages appropriately.If there are riders who bring hot water, they can use a bicycle towel to apply heat, which can also relieve the pain caused by convulsions.
Becoming a better, healthier, and faster cyclist does not require self-torture. Cycling should be a fun thing. As long as you set your goals and ride as planned, you can see progress.We are not trying to create a brand new you, we just want you to get as much fun as possible from cycling, the most important thing is to improve yourself. This is not difficult to achieve, as long as you listen to some simple suggestions and train according to the plan, you will soon see results.1. Improve the average speedIn each ride, you can try to increase the speed to 2 kilometers per hour, of course, it all depends on the riding technique. As an efficient rider, knowing how to speed up will make you ride faster and save energy at the same time, so training in each cycling is an important skill. You lose a lot of speed when you are cornering, but remember that the speed of entering the corner is not the most important thing, the important thing is the speed of crossing the corner. If there is an uphill after going downhill and you can foresee that it is safe, please do not rush to the brakes, otherwise, you will lose power and speed.Finally, consider the cycling posture. Wind resistance will make you unable to ride faster. Therefore, to ride faster, you need to hold the lower handle and lower the center of gravity to minimize the frontal contact of the wind.2. Improve comfortWe will encounter some physical discomforts during cycling, but there are many ways to avoid soreness. A bike fitting before buying a bike can help us correct our posture, effectively reduce physical discomfort, and reduce the chance of injury.Maintain good regular stretching exercises between cycling and after cycling, which helps prevent pain caused by long-term bending and cycling. When you stop cycling and do the stretching before returning to the bike, you will find it feels wonderful.3. Let cycling into lifeFor every rider, finding more time to ride is no small challenge. This requires us to have the two abilities of creativity and thinking, which will help you participate more in cycling. Cycling to work is also a good choice. Even if you can't ride the entire journey, you can only ride to the station (and then change to the subway), but the accumulated cycling can also give us enough training mileage.4. Supplement nutrition in timeRunning out of energy during cycling is definitely an unpleasant experience, but if you replenish nutrients before and during cycling, this embarrassment is easy to avoid. Sports nutrition does not necessarily mean eating expensive nutrients. Bananas, cereal bars, and jam sandwiches all contain large amounts of easily absorbed carbohydrates and are easy to carry and eat. If you plan to go out for a few hours of cycling, you should start eating after the first 30 minutes. Ingesting 60 grams of carbohydrates per hour is a good rule of thumb.5. Long-distance cyclingCycling a hundred kilometers is a difficult task, but if you are not in a hurry and eat well during the cycling, everyone who rides can do it. Several steps can be taken: First, plan the route in advance with the wind direction and hills in mind; when you start cycling, arrange the most difficult mountain route in front so that you can ride home downwind.6. Fall in love with cycling uphillThere are many reasons for you to fall in love with cycling uphill, but there are still many cyclists who are unfriendly to cycling uphill. Participating in cycling uphill at ordinary times can actually make you healthier. Cycling uphill in a planned and regular manner can increase your leg strength. At the same time, it can motivate you to work harder than usual and also promote your cardiovascular health. If you want to ride faster, don't avoid cycling uphill.Cycling on the mountain can broaden your horizons, you can see the beautiful scenery at the top of the mountain, and you can enjoy the pleasure of speed when you go downhill. The more hills you ride, the more experience you will get. If time permits, you can try to challenge longer climbs, and you can try multiple times a year to see if you make progress with each ride.7. Ride with friendsWe often see a group of cyclists lined up and fast forward. They may pay more attention to cycling speed and ignore communication. In fact, cycling and chatting together, and sharing cycling experiences with each other make it easier to get the favor of others. No one wants to stay at the end of the team, and you certainly don't want to be pushed forward, so stay healthy, work hard, and ride happily with your friends.
Among the three largest consumables of bicycles (chains, tires, brake pads), Relatively speaking, brake pads are relatively low in consumption and replacement frequency. Compared with chains, tires, and other accessories that are easy to lose money, hardly notice it. After all, the frequency of replacement is not high and the size is small. You can find the problem only if you watch closely. But in my opinion, the brake pads not only play an important role in safety protection but also a window that shows the low-key luxury taste and cycling values. Well, let's find out, there are some particularities in the choice of brake pads.Love and hate between brake pads and rimsWe know that when the brake pads directly contact and act on the rim, physical reactions such as braking, heat generation, and wear will occur. In addition to the primary function and consideration of braking force, we should also consider whether the material of the brake pad and the rim can be perfectly matched.In addition to the heat generation that bike friends are most concerned about, the "frame burning" is caused by friction and heat, and the temperature is too high; the second is wear. Under the action of friction between the brake shoes and the rim, both sides will cause a certain degree of wear. The material, the brake method, and the friction time will affect the degree of wear.The brake pads used in metal rims are rated at 180 degrees Celsius, while the brake pads used in carbon fiber rims are rated at 320 degrees Celsius. Therefore, the brake pad materials for carbon rings, aluminum rings, and ceramic rings are different. Brake pads are not just a piece of brake pads, and you need to change them when you use them up, but make a reasonable choice based on the material of the rim.MaterialThe material of bicycle brake pads is mainly composite rubber and cork. At present, the mainstream brake pads on the market use composite rubber. Due to the requirements of different material rims, the synthetic composition is different, which is better in terms of temperature and wear. Ground protection of the rim. Cork brake pads appear earlier and are extremely difficult to wear. They perform better in temperature control and in humid environments, but generally speaking, the braking force is relatively weak.RecommendBrandTrifoxModelWT18Typelight weight wheelsetStyleQuick ReleaseMaterial100% Carbon FiberSize700CDepth40mm/45mm/50mm/60mmRimFinish: UD / MattDrills: Front:20; Rear:24 HolesWidth: External 25mmBrake SystemV BrakeO.L.DFront 100mm, Rear 130mmFront Hub2 bearingsRear Hub4 bearingsHub materialAluminum AlloyCassette CompatibilityFit for 8/9/10/11 speedSpoke MaterialStainless SteelSpoke BrandPillarNipplePillar alloy nippleTire TypeClincherRider Weight Limit100kgRecommended tire size700C X 25CRecommended tire pressure 90-135psiPackage Content1 Pair Carbon Road Bike Quick Release Wheels (come with hub already)1 pair Cloth Rim Tape (Nylon Rim Tape Clincher, Wheel Strip Inner Tube Pad)Guarantee2 yearsClick here to buy Carbon Road Bike Quick Release Wheelset WT18
The bike rides through thousands of mountains and rivers. It is inevitable that the road will be rugged. The wheels collide with the bumpy road for a long time. The gradually swaying rim will not only affect the riding feeling but also cause an uneven braking feel. Today, teach you how to do it yourself DIY to correct it to avoid the fate of returning the rim to the original factory due to excessive deflection!Many tools on the market have the function of adjusting the copper head, which can be operated by choosing a coil adjuster (copper head adjuster)Learn about adjusting the rimThe correction of rim deflection is mainly by adjusting the spoke tension on the left and right sides of the rim to balance it to center the rim. ●The direction of adjusting the copper head of the spoke is opposite to that of the lock screw. Counterclockwise is to lock and clockwise to loosen. For example, if the rim yaw position is to the right (the right spoke has greater tension), it depends on whether the spoke at that place is a right spoke or a left spoke. If it is a right spoke, the tension is relaxed clockwise; If it is the left side, tighten it counterclockwise, and at the same time, adjust one spoke (the other spoke) in the opposite direction. ●The adjustment range of the copper head is limited to 1/8 to 1/4 turn each time. After the adjustment, turn the rim to check and fine-tune slowly. Do not adjust too much at one time, which may cause serious consequences.Rim deflection correction!This time the main purpose is to simply improve the cycling and braking feel. The brake pads of the bike are used to make judgments and corrections. For example, turning the bike upside down in the demonstration can be more convenient for operation.1. Adjust the brake stroke knob to make the brake block closer to the rim to facilitate the judgment of the deflection condition.2. Rotate the wheelset, and find out the deflection part by observing the change of the gap when the rim passes the brake block.3. Mark the most severely distorted spoke with a mark, use the adjuster to adjust the spoke, as well as one, spoke before and after it (according to the above-mentioned adjustment technique), then repeat steps 2 and 3, repeat the correction to satisfaction status.After the rim has been rectified, adjust the distance between the brake pads to an appropriate distance, and confirm that the brake is centered, so as to prevent the rim from being distorted due to long-term uneven force.This time, only simple adjustments are made for the left and right deflection of the rim, but the professional rim correction also includes details such as full circle and diagonal tension, or some wheels use special designs with non-square copper heads. If the cyclists need it, It is recommended to ask a professional technician or the original factory to assist in the correction will be more accurate!Click Here to buy carbon fiber road bike wheelset
In addition to the saddle, another major component that affects the long-distance road riding experience is the handlebar. Nowadays, handlebar manufacturers and brands provide handlebars of different widths and lengths for various riders. So in the face of a dazzling array of handlebars, how should we choose the one that suits us?This article is about two points to consider when choosing a handlebar, whether you are buying a handlebar for the first time or want to further upgrade your bicycle, these two points are applicable.Choose the length of the handlebarIn the choice of the length of the handlebar, there are mainly two opinions.The first argument is that the long handlebars can better reflect the effect of leverage, allowing the rider to use more power to control the bicycle. And the long handlebars also help to open our chests and breathe easier.The second argument is more inclined to use short handlebars. This argument believes that narrow handlebars can stretch people's shoulders and back, thereby reducing muscle tension and fatigue. Not only that, but the shorter handlebars can also make the aerodynamic effect more prominent.My original handlebar was at least 44cm in length, but now my handlebar is only 42cm in length.I still remember when I was changing the handlebars, I was always worried. First of all, I know that depending on the length of the handlebars, there will be great differences in the feelings of cycling. These differences are reflected in the feeling of support and chest stretch when cycling, and the second is because of my body shape. More than the average rider huge.After changing to the new handlebar, I did feel that the leverage on this shorter new handlebar would be less than that of the old handlebar, but from my overall feelings of support, I got used to it quickly.In terms of comfort, because the new handlebars are shorter, the distance between my hands is closer, so my triceps also need to exert more force. But this may also be the reason why I don't tighten my arms when riding a bike. In short, I have already digested the difference in feeling.In terms of breathing, I didn't obviously feel that these two handlebars of different lengths had any effect on my breathing, so I couldn't make a statement.Eddie Audi, the founder of a bicycle fitness center in Atlanta, said "According to experience, the distance between the two shoulder lock joints should match the length of the handlebar. But this is only the conclusion that most people have concluded. Not necessarily applicable to everyone."(Note: Acromioclavicular joint, referred to as AC joint. It refers to the sliding or planar joint formed by the acromioclavicular articular surface and the outer end of the clavicle, located on the outermost side of the scapula.)Eddie Audi also said, "Short handlebars will make our elbows and forearms tight, which can easily lead to forearm fatigue. But in fact, long handlebars have their own problems."So having said so much, if we want to buy the most suitable handlebars, we still need to try and experience them ourselves.But here, this article can still make a suggestion. That is, if you feel your back and neck muscles tight and tired every time you finish riding, then your handlebars may be too long. But if you feel that your arm muscles are very tired or have chest tightness or nervousness when riding a bike, then the handlebars are too short for you.Selection of handlebar shapeEddie Audi said, "When choosing a flat or round handlebar shape, the size of the hand is a very important determinant. People with larger hands can use a wide and flat handlebar, and people with smaller hands can use it. It is more suitable for thinner handlebars. This is because people who are not big enough need to open their hands when using wide handlebars, which will increase the burden on the forearms. This principle is similar to the grip of a tennis racket."This suggestion is very useful.In my own experience, because I am tall and strong, my hands are also very large, so I always prefer to use wide and flat handlebars. But when I checked my bicycle recently, I suddenly changed myself to a thin round alloy handlebar, and the experience was very poor.
1. FrameTo clean the frame, you can use a rag dipped in water to pour on the parts, so that the mud stuck to the bottom of the frame will easily become soft when exposed to water. At this time, just wipe with a rag to easily remove the mud. It is not advisable to use a high-pressure water gun to wash the sludge on the bicycle, because this cleaning will easily enter the bottom bracket or hub and affect the life of the parts.At this time, you need to pay attention to some places where mud is easy to accumulate on the frame, such as the position of the bottom bracket on the bottom bracket. After washing off the muddy water on the frame with clean water, wipe it with a semi-dry damp cloth. When there is dirt on the frame, just wipe it back and forth several times, and the frame will be clean. Remember not to scrub with detergent and soapy water.2. Wheels, tires, and seat postWhen washing the wheelset, you can choose to use the shoe brush dipped in detergent to brush the sand on the tire. When washing the rim, it is best to use a semi-dry damp cloth and carefully wipe the brake pads on the rim. Simply scrub the spokes. After washing the hub, do not use a high-pressure water gun to remove the detergent. Simply dip it in water and wipe it with a clean cloth. When washing the seat post and the saddle, be careful not to let muddy water flow into the seat tube along the seam of the seat post clamp. Under the saddle, it is often the place where mud and water fly up the most, so you must carefully wipe off the mud with a rag.For tires, you can use a slightly harder brush to remove the sand and dust from the tires for simple maintenance.3. Shifter, front derailleur, and rear derailleurAfter washing the above parts, the next step is to wash the shifter. The shifter is more complicated. There is more butter in the parts for lubrication. When cleaning the shifter, it is best to wipe it gently with a rag, and it will be clean. When washing front and rear derailleurs, you can directly aim the water pipe at the gap between the front and rear derailleurs to rinse with water, so that the mud and sand stuck in the front and rear dials can be washed away. After flushing, you can also use detergent to wash off the oil on the front and rear derailleurs.4. Fork, pedal, brakeIt's easy to clean the front fork and pedals. The pedals only need to be washed off with mud. It is best not to rinse the front fork with water. When scrubbing the inner tube of the front fork, wring out the water on the rag before wiping. Some impurities will remain on the inner tube of the front fork after using it for a period of time. You can gently wipe it off with a cotton swab. It is best to develop a habit of keeping the front fork clean. This is also the most basic maintenance of the front fork. When washing the brake (subject to the V brake), you can directly flush the mud and sand left in the brake with a water pipe to prepare for the next maintenance.For chain wheel, front and rear transmissions, guide wheels, etc., dust and small dirt can be removed with a brush.5. Crankset, freewheel, and chainIn the entire cleaning process, these three accessories may be the dirtiest parts. Because the lubricating oil is left on the accessories, dust is most likely to adhere. We can pour the same dishwashing detergent on the cloth first, and then clean the chainring after dipping it in water. When washing the chainring, try to wash every tooth with a cloth as much as possible. After washing, rinse with water. You will be pleasantly surprised to find that the crankset is as bright as new under the scrubbing with a dishcloth.The next thing to wash is the freewheel. To wash the freewheel, remove the rear wheel for cleaning. First, release the rear brake so that the brake does not pinch the wheel. First, loosen the screws on both sides of the rear wheel quick release. At this time, tap the rear wheel lightly and the wheel will come out.Put the wheels on the ground, wipe them carefully on the freewheel with a rag, pay attention to the position of the rear derailleur when putting the wheels back on the bicycle, and slowly pull the rear derailleur to put the wheels in. This process is very simple, and you can understand it after disassembly and assembly once or twice.
Do you need a road bike?1. Road bikes can commute, but they are not good at commuting; road bikes can go for outings, but they are not suitable for outings; road bikes are a nightmare for long distances, road bikes cannot be parked casually, road bikes have too many skills, and road bike adjustments rely on With rich experience…2. Road bike is a piece of sports equipment, road bike sport is a hobby, and road bike hobby is a burden. You will enjoy the burning sensation of the diaphragm instead of the envy of others.This is not an article that encourages you to join the road bike circle. If you have the willpower, have the financial base, have time to exercise, and are interested in road bikes, then consider buying a road bike.What should I pay attention to before purchasing?1. I want to buy a road bike, but what kind of bike is called a road bike?① Reasonable geometric designBecause of the low riding posture on the road, the geometrical settings of the vehicle itself are extremely demanding. Incorrect body geometry and size are very easy to cause personal injury, and in many cases this injury will be considered as a fatigue symptom after exercise, waiting for you to find out, It's too late to regret.② 700c wheel diameter, tire diameter below 30cThe 700c wheel diameter is a follow-up standard, and the tire diameter below 30c can ensure low enough rolling resistance on the paved road.③ Drop handlebarThe purpose of the handlebar design is to ensure that the rider can adopt a low wind resistance posture and allow the rider to perform a variety of postures.④ Bicycle Brake/Shifter GroupsetsThe Bicycle Brake/Shifter Groupsets are a milestone in the development of road bikes. It reduces the rider's movement range when shifting, and does not have to leave the corners of the fingers to avoid accidents caused by operating errors.⑤ Self-locking pedalWithout self-locking fixation, many technical actions cannot be completed-such as rocking a bike and low-position downhill. and it is easy to cause danger in the open environment of the road race. Therefore, it is necessary equipment for road bike sports.2. What size bike should I buy?① For normal people, the simplest correspondence between height and frame is basically certain, and the fine-tuning of the body proportions depend on the seat tube and the stem.② The basic attribute to measure the size of the frame is the equivalent horizontal center to center length and the seat height (Center to Top) length. Among the two, the horizontal top tube is the most direct and important data. Due to the promotion of compression racks, many manufacturers currently do not directly indicate the size of the frame by the length of the horizontal up tube but use the label or the length of the riser to indicate it. When considering the frame, you must query its official website geometric information to obtain the horizontal upper tube data of each size.The following is a reference for height and frame size. Since the top tube settings of various frame levels are different, only the range options are given.<160cm: It is recommended to be the same length first…otherwise you can only choose a special children's road bike.161-165cm: It is recommended to have the same length and height first… Be sure to buy it. The horizontal top tube is 49-51cm.166-170cm: It is recommended to use a frame with a 50.5-52 horizontal up tube, and the maximum length should not exceed 52.5cm171-175cm: It is recommended to use a frame with a 52-53 horizontal up tube, and the maximum length should not exceed 53.5cm176-180cm: It is recommended to use a 53-55.5cm frame, and the maximum size should not exceed 56cm181-185cm: It is recommended to use a frame of 55.5-57.5cm, and the maximum size should not exceed 58cm186-195cm: It is recommended to use a 57.5-59cm frame, and the maximum size should not exceed 59.5cm>195cm: If you can't use a frame of about 59.5-60cm, you probably need to customize a bike… A finished frame with a horizontal top tube exceeding 60cm is very rare.The above is for reference only. The easiest way is to find a suitable place to do a fitting, but the fitting will change with the change of skills and physical conditions. If there is no fitting condition, you need to specifically consider which end your height is in the range. For example, if your height is 181cm, buying a 58cm equivalent frame is obviously prone to problems, but if it is 185cm, buying a 55.5cm frame may not be impossible. In addition, these reference data only need special attention on the first bicycle. When you constantly modify the bicycle settings, you will know what kind of bike geometry you need: large or small frame, layback seatpost or straight seatpost, the angle of the stem, the drop bar, and the reach of the drop handlebar… these experiences are only for individuals.The heights of some well-known cyclists are listed below, and the top tube dimensions of the frame and the equivalent level of the frame are just for viewing:Alexander Vinokourov: 177cm, Tarmac SL4, 537mmLance Armstrong: 178cm, Madone 6, 544mmDavid Zabriskie: 183cm, R5 VWD, 548mmDenis Menchov: 178cm, Aeroad CF, 560mmFabian Cancellara: 186cm, Madone 6, 560mm
For those who are just getting started with a mountain bike, and in order to let everyone better enjoy the fun of cycling, here are some tips about how to use derailleur correctly.After cycling for so long, it is found that most riders do not use the derailleur correctly, which causes unnecessary wear and tear of the chain and derailleur, and causes the performance of the derailleur to decrease after a short period of time! Now I will briefly introduce you to the reasonable use method of gear matching (27-speed mountain bike as an example): 27-speed bicycle has 3 chainrings, and there are nine cassettes behind it. It is generally considered that 3×9=27 so it is referred to as 27-speed The reasonable way to use the derailleur is to use the smallest chainring (1st gear) in the front and 5678 gears behind (as shown in the picture), the middle chainring (2nd gear) in the front, and (2, 3, 4, 5) in the rear. , 6 and 7 gears), the front is hung on the largest chainring (3rd gear), and the back is hung at 123 gears (as shown in the figure, the gears are 1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9 from small to large cassette). Will cause unnecessary wear and tear of the derailleur!Pay attention to some problems when using the front largest chainring. Try not to use the largest rear cassette when using the front largest chainring. This way, the use of front and rear shift will maximize the tension of the rear derailleur and the front derailleur, and the chain tilt will be more serious. Such use will shorten the life of the chain and the life of the derailleur, and the accuracy will also be reduced! There is also the smallest chainring and smallest cassette as much as possible because when this gear is matched, the twist of the chain is also relatively high. Not only is the chain tilted more severely, but the chain is also the loosest in this gear, and it is easy to bump Chain fight! So try to avoid using the largest chainring with the largest sprocket, and the smallest chainring with the smallest sprocket! !! When using the largest chainring, the cassette is generally used with 1, 2, 3, and gears. When using the middle plate, the cassette can be used with gears 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7. When using the small disc, the cassette can be used with gears 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9. Using the derailleur in this way can greatly extend the life of the derailleur and its stable performance!When riding on an ordinary asphalt road, the front chainring (operated by the left finger) is fixed in the middle (or the largest chainring (first gear)). The rear chainring (operated by the right finger) is easier to understand. The smallest front chainring is only used when going uphill. How to choose the gear ratio of the rear chainring? This is determined by the number of pedaling rotations (the number of rotations of the front chainring (center shaft) in 1 minute). So how much rotation is more suitable? It varies according to foot strength, technique, and heart and lung function. Generally, 70～80rpm is more suitable.Note 1: The choice of speed change should be based on your own situation. For example, the middle chainring of the front gear is often used, or the largest chainring is often used. If the physical strength and foot strength are 30km/h, maybe outer is suitable? When the physical strength and foot strength are 20km/h, maybe the middle chainring is suitable? Within the range of compensation through the rear shift, choose the shift that suits you, and choose the speed and cadence that suits you.Note 2: 70～80rpm is the general standard, some people are more suitable for 70rpm, and some people rotate more than 90rpm. The important thing is not to increase the torque to the pedal but to rotate smoothly and briskly. Don't hurt your knees, and don't get too tired of your muscles. Use muscles as much as possible, and pedaling with efficiency and less fatigued is a good pedaling method.Pay attention to us, we will post more tips about riding.
