For most road bikers, comfort is definitely a part of efficiency, as specialized said, “Smooth is faster” unless you are a “copper wall and iron fart”, or your cycling route is very smooth. Some cyclists may feel that the comfort of the bicycle is not up to expectations, so they will choose to replace the endurance frame or the ultra-light climbing frame. This is of course a way to solve the problem from the root, In fact, there are some methods that do not need to be so troublesome or even cost a penny to improve comfort. Tires are the first level of shock absorption. In fact, most of the shock absorption of road bikes is done by tires. Suitable tire settings can be used more than endurance frames, so we start with tires. Tire pressure First of all, of course, the free method of improving comfort is to lower the tire pressure. So far, many cyclists are still superstitious that this high tire pressure is faster, so many feel that the bike is too bumpy, in fact, because the tire pressure is too high. In this era of 25c, even 28c wide tires and wide rims, the tire pressure of 120PSI has long been unnecessary. As long as you are not a 200 kg rider, the tire pressure of about 100 PSI is completely sufficient, and 28c tires can even be reduced to 80 PSI. Therefore, if you feel that the bike is too bumpy, you must first check your tire pressure setting. A reduction of 5-10PSI is enough to change the cycling experience. In the era of disc brake road bikes, most frames were designed based on 28c tires, and many frames support measured 30mm or even 32mm tires. The 28c tire will be higher than the 25c after inflation, and the “buffer cushion” is also larger, so it can effectively improve the road feel. But wide tires are a double-edged sword. While improving the road feel, due to the increase in the weight of the tire and inner tube, and the weight gain is concentrated on the outer edge of the wheelset, it will increase the feeling of heavy drag and reduce the efficiency. Especially obvious. Obviously, this is just a comfort-oriented improvement plan. If you want to have both speed and comfort, you have to think of a way. Since we have to sacrifice a little weight, we do not adopt this plan. Tubeless tyre If you don’t want to use 28c wide tires, you can choose to use tubeless tires. Currently, most disc brake wheels support tubeless tires. Since the tubeless tire has no friction between the inner tube and the outer tire, the rolling resistance will be lower than that of the open tire; and the risk of snake bite is eliminated, and lower tire pressure can be used. In actual experience, in the case of 80PSI tubeless tires, the rolling resistance is almost the same as that of 100PSI clinchers, and the road feel will be significantly improved. So you definitely want to ask, is the 28c tubeless tire feeling invincible? This is indeed the case, and without the weight of the inner tube, it will be lighter than the 28c clincher, and the efficiency will be higher. Of course, the tubeless tyre is not perfect, and it is quite troublesome to use. For example, disassembly and assembly, emergency treatment of a puncture, and dry self-refilling make it a little more troublesome to use it. But compared to tube tires, I would still choose tubeless tires. So is there any other way? some! Wide wheelset There is no metaphysics in this, it is just that the rim of nearly 21mm inner width increases the actual installation width of the tire. The actual installation width of the 25c Continental wheels has already been 29mm, so what you enjoy is the comfort improvement brought by the wide tires, not the wheels themselves. This benefit is also very obvious, that is, with the weight of 25c tires, you can enjoy the road feel of 28c tires. It is a perfect solution. For example, with a pair of wheels with an inner width of 17.5mm and an outer width of 25mm, with clinchers, the road feel has been significantly improved, and the vibration has been reduced below the threshold. Handlebar Slim pneumatic handlebars have weaker vertical rigidity due to the horizontal part of the handlebar, so they can be slightly more shock-absorbing, such as TC20AF, TC20UL, etc. Strap Using a thicker handlebar can also bring comfort, but it will increase the handlebar diameter and affect the grip. Some handlebars with silicone anti-skid straps can also improve a certain degree of shock absorption. Seatpost For some entry-level models, upgrading a carbon fiber seatpost can significantly improve the comfort of the cushion area. Bike Saddle Some comfort-oriented bike saddles can well improve the comfort of the hips. Cycling pants Some of the cushions of cycling pants that are specifically designed for long-distance cycling will be optimized for long-term cycling and can also provide some extra hip comfort. Of course, if the above measures cannot meet the road conditions of your local cycling route, then you really need an endurance bike with a shock-absorbing structure.
The width, angle, and elevation of the handlebar directly affect the handling and comfort of the bicycle. So, is the width and angle of the handlebar really important? Below, we will talk about how to correctly choose the width and angle of the handlebar through the three most common types of mountain bikes. XC handlebar width and angle selection As the only mountain bike event in the Olympics, the current xc track is becoming more and more complex, the wheel diameter is getting bigger and bigger, and the types of handlebars are also increasing. Compared with the other two models, the xc climbs more slopes. Now, most xc riders choose a longer negative angle stem. The handlebar width is generally 640～740mm. The handlebar is generally 640～740mm in width, in order to exert force on the uphill and press the front wheel Bring good support to the cradle. The angle of the handlebars is also relatively forward, but due to the increasingly rugged and complex terrain and the use of 29-inch wheel diameters, many professional riders choose handles with a 5-10 degree lift, which can ensure the efficiency of uphill. At the same time, it brings a certain improvement to the attitude stability of the downhill bike control and flying over the platform. Personally, I feel that the xc handlebars can now be selected from 680 to 700mm, and the angle can remain unchanged. If you are interested, you can try it. Enduro handlebar width and angle selection The adjustment of the front and rear shock absorbers directly affects your position on the bicycle, so before choosing the handlebar height, make sure that the front and rear shock absorbers have been adjusted. Unlike roads, mountain bikes are more flexible, so there is no “recommended” absolute handlebar height. Handlebar lift is subjective and depends on your own personal preferences, height, choice of bike, and terrain. For enduro models, the handlebar lift generally tends to be between 20 degrees and 35 degrees. Because this is not only conducive to the uphill force but also can bring stable control to the downhill. The 780mm handlebar width is more suitable for the shoulder width of our Asians. Now, most of the original handlebars are 800mm, and many people buy them and install them directly. This will lose your strength and control of the bike in climbing and downhill, especially cycling on a narrow forest road. It is also a big test for your control. As the current handlebars are somewhat drifting (the angle at which the handlebars deviate backward, about 5-15 degrees), the installation angle can be selected as far back as possible in the middle (there are digital scales on the handlebars, and scales of different brands) Means different). Because of the offset of those few degrees, the feeling and confidence of lifting the front of the bike and controlling the bike downhill will be greatly increased, but the installation angle should not be too backward so that it will be very strange when going uphill and it will not be sent. force. After confirming the width, try both the front and back angles so that you can find the angle that suits you. DH handlebar width and angle selection In Red Bull Rampage (Red Bull Rampage), the various gods operate so smoothly, the choice of handlebars is also crucial. DH handlebars are mainly divided into two types, racing type, and action type. For racing type, you can choose a handlebar with a lower lift (20-30 degrees). The same is true. The width of 780mm is more suitable for us Asians (if Your shoulder width is enough, you can use 800mm). The handlebars of downhill bikes are mainly for bike control, and the angle can be selected to be centered and rearward, and the center of gravity is relatively backward when going downhill to improve stability. If you are an action-type DH player, you can choose to raise the handlebars higher (about 30-40 degrees), and the width can also be relatively reduced, about 740mm-780mm, which is convenient for making “perfect” movements when flying bags.
Many cyclists are very entangled with a question at the beginning, that is, whether to install a bicycle foot support or not. In the later practice, it proved that there is really no need to install, some said it was because of weight reduction, some said it was ugly, and some said it damaged the bike. In short, don't install it! For sports bikes, we don’t advocate the installation of bicycle foot supports, so what should we do when I need to park when we go out? Here are some bike enthusiasts who use the things at hand and the surrounding environment to help park their favorite bicycles. Let’s learn together! Share eight parking methods for your reference: 1. Put the handlebar against the wall Handlebars against the wall are something many cyclists will do, or they are against roadside railings, etc. It requires a little skill and a little adjustment. 2. Use the rear wheel against the wall Similarly, use the rear wheel is against the wall. It is also very good to just use the rear wheel to find a support point on the wall. 3. Use the bicycle saddle against the wall Of course, Use the cushions against the wall, the reason is the same. The advantage of placing the cushion against the wall is that you don’t worry about the wall bumping into other parts of the bicycle. Extend it, you can also lean against trees and lampposts. 4. Upside down It takes a little bit of effort. After all, not everyone likes to turn the bike upside-down, so it depends on personal preference. 5. Hook the railing Limited to the handlebars, the handlebars of bicycles have found a new purpose. Hooking on the railings may be more stable than leaning on them. 6. Support front and back together It means that as long as you lean against the wall, you can stabilize it. It is also the easiest and most practical way. 7. Fall to the ground (put the side with the rear derailleur up) Pay attention to the fact that the transmission is facing upwards. When parking, be careful not to let the rear transmission directly touch the supporting surface; this can reduce the damage to the transmission and affect the accuracy of shifting. 8. Two bicycles lean on each other This requires technology, and it’s very easy to rely on. If you don’t rely on it well, the bike falls in minutes. 9. Use the road teeth to put the foot on it This method is very cool and the most commonly used. The bicycle is standing on the side of the road, and you are standing next to the bicycle. Finally, I would like to remind you that when you park your bicycle, you must protect it. Don’t let your bike bump into it. If you drop a piece of paint or something, you will feel very distressed.
The way of breathing is different in different stages of cycling. Before cycling: Inhale through the nose and exhale through the mouth Before setting off, you must first adjust your breathing by inhaling and exhaling to make your body adapt to the rhythm of exercise in advance. Method analysis: first close your mouth and use your nose to inhale deeply and slowly until you can no longer inhale, and then open your mouth to slowly exhale the air. After exhaling, close your mouth and inhale deeply with your nose. Repeat the above operation 9 times in succession. After you are done, breathe naturally through your nose a few times and you can set off. Cycling on flat roads: abdominal breathing When you start cycling, your body’s oxygen consumption will increase, and abdominal breathing can inhale more air, thereby increasing oxygen intake. Method analysis: close your mouth and roll your tongue up against your upper jaw to prevent excessive air from staying in your mouth. Then use your nose to inhale deeply. At this time, you can clearly feel that your abdomen is contracting. When you exhale, you should exhale as much as possible. At this time, your abdomen should be protruding outward.It doesn’t matter if you don’t get used to it at first, you will get used to it if you practice consciously. When climbing: fast inhale and fast exhale Compared to cycling on a flat road, climbing a hill requires more energy, so more oxygen is needed to power the muscles. At this time, although abdominal breathing requires a large amount of oxygen, such a relatively slow breathing rhythm cannot meet the demand. At this time, it is necessary to change the breathing mode. Method analysis: When you first start going uphill, you can use the same way of inhaling and exhaling before you set off; pay attention to inhale and exhale slowly. When you find that your breathing is getting more and more rapid, you should speed up your breathing rhythm-close your mouth, inhale quickly through your nose, and exhale quickly through your mouth.If your breathing becomes more and more rapid, you might as well stop the cart and adjust your breathing. Precautions. During the entire cycling process, whether you are cycling or getting off the cart, be sure not to breathe in with your mouth.On the one hand, although the amount of oxygen inhaled by mouth is relatively large, it is easy to inhale insects and other dirt, and inhalation of cold air often causes coughing and even diarrhea, which greatly affects the cycling experience. On the other hand, the nose itself has the ability to filter air, and at the same time, after the air passes through the nasal cavity, it will become warm and humid. In contrast, inhaling through the nose is more beneficial to the body.
Carbon fiber is an incredible material that has completely changed the design and performance of bicycle frames. It is lightweight, corrosion-resistant, can be molded into various required shapes and is very strong in use. The claim that carbon fiber frames and related parts are generally brittle and unreliable is not true, but just alarmist. It is strong enough to be used in F1 and the aerospace industry, and there is no doubt that it is naturally used in the bicycle field. If it is produced by a credible manufacturer and used correctly, there is no reason why the carbon frame will not give you enough mileage to ride happily, and now many manufacturers provide a lifetime warranty for the frame. No matter what frame material you choose, whether it is a carbon frame, a steel frame, aluminum alloy, or titanium alloy, quality is the key, and good quality is always more durable. Riding a carbon frame bike, you don’t need to deliberately change some cycling methods, but you can pay attention to the details of the daily maintenance and use of some carbon fiber bikes. Buy a torque wrench Despite the incredible force performance in the design direction, squeezing can easily damage the carbon fiber, such as over-tightened bolts and clamps, handlebars, and seat posts are the most common causes of damage to the carbon fiber frame. All parts of a carbon fiber bicycle will be marked with a recommended torque value in Newton meters, which can be found on the relevant parts, manuals, or on the manufacturer’s official website. If you have a carbon fiber bike, a torque wrench is necessary, it can ensure that you will not use more than the recommended torque to tighten the components. If you have previously owned a bicycle with a metal frame, you may be surprised that the force required to assemble and adjust a carbon fiber bicycle is so small. Use carbon assembly paste The relatively small torque required for the carbon frame and its components also has the drawback that it is easy to slip off. This especially affects the Seatpost. Don’t risk trying to tighten the Seatpost with extra, more force, you should use carbon assembly paste. This is a gel containing fine particles, similar to a thin film, which increases friction between the contact surfaces to prevent slippage. Assembling paste and torque wrench are necessary for carbon fiber bicycle owners. Be careful Damage to the carbon frame caused by accidents or collisions is usually difficult to predict and avoid in advance, but some collision events that damage the carbon fiber can be easily avoided. A common situation is when the handlebar is rotated and hits the upper tube of the frame. This often happens when the bicycle is inadvertently lifted. So be careful not to let this happen when picking up the bike. In addition, try to avoid stacking bicycles on other bicycles, and do not use the seat part to lean on poles or pillars, so that the bicycle will easily slip and cause a collision with the frame. Leaning the bike on a surface such as a wall is much safer. Of course, you don’t need to be too nervous to wrap your bike with cotton wool. You just need to be more careful and take reasonable precautions to avoid unnecessary collisions. Keep it clean Regular cleaning can give you a chance to inspect the bike carefully to see if there are obvious signs of damage. Regardless of the material of the frame, this should be your routine during cycling. Of course, rough cleaning also needs to be avoided, which will damage the epoxy resin wrapped around the carbon fiber. If you have any questions about how to clean your bike scientifically, you can consult the manufacturer for advice. Any degreaser or cleaning products for bicycles and old-fashioned mild soapy water should be used appropriately and reasonably. Avoid squeezing As mentioned above, try not to over-tighten the parts. Carbon fiber is easily damaged by extrusion. Therefore, you need to be especially careful when using a repair rack or an onboard bicycle rack to clamp the frame tube. The bicycle should be fixed with minimal pressure, or a protective layer can be wrapped on the frame. Of course, you can also consider changing to a bicycle transportation method. If you want to take your bicycle on the plane, we strongly recommend using a hard special box for packing. Don’t reverse For metal frames and parts, for example, during the installation process of handlebars and Seatposts, it is normal and acceptable to give a certain amount of rotation or pull for fine adjustment after being fixed. However, this step will cause damage to the carbon fiber bicycle and must be strongly avoided. The correct way is to use the recommended torque value and use the assembly paste. If the position and angle of the parts need to be adjusted, the parts should be completely loosened in advance. Measure twice, cut once If you need to cut carbon fiber parts, such as handlebars and the entire Seatpost, remember to measure carefully and accurately, and wrap it with tape as a mark for the cutting part. Cutting requires a special carbon saw blade, which can prevent fiber tearing and abrasion. . Never use a pen or sharp tool to mark the position on the seat post that needs to be cut, because even a small scratch may damage the carbon fiber. Instead, you can use insulating tape to paste and wrap it to mark the cut position. Avoid chain jamming Many people have encountered the situation of chain drop, especially when shifting gears incorrectly. In the worst case, the chain gets stuck between the smallest chainring and the chainstay after the chain is dropped, and it gets stuck instantly. For carbon fiber bikes, this is a great “pain”. When this happens, stop pedaling immediately and avoid further exertion. After returning home, thoroughly clean and relubricate your drive system. Check your chain, including wear, elasticity, etc. It is best to replace it if necessary. Replace the brake pads If you use alloy training wheels and carbon fiber racing wheels alternately, replacing your brake pads accordingly is the most basic. Although there are dual-purpose brake pads, the remaining metal fragments on the surface of the brake pads can easily scratch and destroy the carbon fiber rim. If the worst happens In the event of a crash or accident, unlike the metal frame, where the depression or bending damage can be clearly seen on the exterior, the carbon fiber may appear to be undamaged on the exterior, but it has actually been damaged. If you have such a crash and worry about your frame, be sure to ask a professional technician to do a professional inspection. Even serious damage can be repaired well. Even if the aesthetics are not perfect, they can at least guarantee safety and function.
The development of mountain bike Speed gear: Since the mid-90s, the speed gear of mainstream mountain bikes has been changing. The development process is roughly like this: 3×8=24 speed→3×9=27 speed→3×10=30 speed→2×10=20 speed→2×11=22 speed →1×11=11 speed →1×12=12 speed. The more popular speed gear such as 3×9, 3×10, etc., have now been replaced by lesser speeds such as the front 1-2 speed and the rear 10-12 speed. Why is there less and less speed gear? Not use so many speed gears: Bikers who often ride mountain bikes cross country know that in the process of cycling, the three-disc configuration is actually not very useful. Take me as an example. In the era of 3 discs, I would basically use the big disc to ride on the road, the middle disc for climbing or cross-country. For the adjustment of the front and rear speed ratio, I used more on the rear derailleur. It is not needed because it is too “light” and it feels like kicking in the air. And in use, the 3-disk system will have a lot of overlap between the front and rear speed ratios, which is actually too redundant. The wheel diameter is getting bigger and bigger: In addition, the current professional mountain bike wheel diameter is mostly 27.5 or 29 inches, which is much larger than the traditional 26 inches. The large wheel diameter and the larger chainring make the foot feel very heavy, which is not suitable for XC cycling, So manufacturers will reduce the number of teeth of the chainring to a more suitable number of XC teeth, such as a single disk with 34-36 teeth, or a small disk with about 26 teeth. This allows the cyclist to obtain a more suitable pedaling force during cross-country cycling. Cassette gears gradually increase: At present, the freewheels of mainstream mountain bikes are all 10 and 11 speeds, and SRAM has even introduced a 12-speed freewheel. For the outdated 8 and 9-speed freewheel era, the current freewheel covers more speeds, with double discs and even A single disc is completely sufficient, and the increment range of the number of teeth is small, and a very fine increase/decrease of the gear ratio can be obtained-the fine speed change is more reflected in the freewheel than the chainring. Easy to operate: Too many gears will make you feel very complicated to operate, especially in XC cycling that requires a high degree of concentration, and can handle changing terrain at any time. Simple operation is particularly important. Therefore, streamlining the transmission system allows cyclists to concentrate more on cycling. Moreover, the higher the intensity of mountain bike cycling, the more downhill and the less frequently the transmission system is used. Practical application: At present, 3×9 and 3×10 speeds are still in use, but they are mostly concentrated on 26-inch hardtail mountain bikes. 3×9 speeds are basically only used for entry-level mountain bikes. The dual-disc transmission system is mostly found in the middle and high levels. Hardtail mountain bikes with 27.5 or 29-inch wheel diameters, and suspension bikes with stronger off-road strength (mountain bikes with rear shocks) basically use a single-disc transmission system. As shown below:
Generally speaking, for long-distance riding on good roads, a road bike is a good choice. A road bike will be faster and improve your efficiency. If riding on complex and varied mixed terrain, mountain bikes will provide better traction while handling more complex road conditions better. Reliability The biggest advantage of riding a mountain bike is reliability. The frame of the mountain bike is strong enough and can adapt to all kinds of bad weather and road conditions. The probability of failure during riding is much smaller than that of road bikes, so you can rest assured when riding mountain bikes. Although road bikes are strong enough, they are still a little bit worse than mountain bikes. Efficiency Mountain bikes were originally designed to cope with off-road riding. The tires are wider, the texture is more complex, and the body is heavier. These all limit the speed of mountain bikes, so mountain bikes will be slower than road bikes. If you want to achieve efficient long-distance For cycling, a road bike is a good choice. Comfort Mountain bikes are equipped with shock absorbers, which can effectively absorb bumps from the road, and the riding posture of mountain bikes is more upright, which greatly improves the comfort of long-distance riding. The advantage of road bikes in terms of comfort is the drop handlebar, which allows you to change the position of the grip and adjust the riding position, which can prevent sore hands. Load A touring road bike designed entirely for long-distance riding, the frame can be fitted with various panniers. In this regard, road bikes are no worse than mountain bikes. It’s just that the road bikes that you usually come into contact with are mainly based on speed. You must know that there are road bikes first, and then mountain bikes. Many world tours use endurance road bikes. So if you want to go on a long-distance ride, what kind of car would you choose? You can check this Trifox Carbon Road bike X16
Wet road When the field is wet and slippery, drivers are especially reminded to avoid passing through white lines, gutter covers, zebra crossings, etc., otherwise heavy pedaling is easy to slip; in fact, once the ground is wet and slippery, even light brakes are likely to cause crashes It is a good policy to reduce the speed to 30-40 kilometers, and try to avoid the action of pressing the car and skidding when cornering. In addition, players should choose appropriate equipment before the game, especially when encountering mechanical failures. Carbon fiber wheels and aluminum alloy wheels use different brake blocks. Let the brake lose its proper braking ability. Considering the maintenance cost, the coach also recommends that the players use aluminum alloy wheels to play on rainy days, so as to avoid the carbon fiber wheels being worn by sand and stones and causing damage. In addition, after climbing to the summit, athletes should use gloves and windbreakers to assist them, and supplement with hot food to warm their bodies before going down the mountain. This prevents the hand stiffness caused by the low temperature and maintains the sensitivity of fingers when braking. If you are still affected by the low temperature on the top of the mountain and feel uncomfortable, the coach recommends using safe sections to do handshaking and stretching to help blood flow. Downhill section During the race, you only need to use the brakes when cornering and going downhill. Please refer to the cornering skills of road bikes when cornering. You should remain vigilant at all times on the slope section, and prepare in advance at about 100 meters when there is expected braking demand ahead. After climbing to the top, it is also recommended that players pay attention to their own safety when going downhill, and focus on low-speed skating. The training should focus on climbing. Respond quickly at 30-50 meters, but the average player should slow down at 80-100 meters in advance to test safety. If you are the first player to attack downhill, courage is the most important factor if you want to maximize the distance between you and the players behind you on the downhill; sit slightly backward, and use the strength of the back muscles and abdominal muscles to help support, do not put all the weight on the handlebars for more maneuverability. Roadblock, bumpy road Encountering predictable bumpy road sections, the driver should avoid excessive relaxation and pressure into “ostrich eggs” or potholes in the road. For people with poor eyesight and lowering their heads will is a taboo. Hold on to the handlebars or lower the handlebars to keep running in a straight line, and pass naturally after slowing down. In addition, don’t rely too much on following the car, especially in professional competitions, you may encounter situations where the line of sight is poor or the opponent’s player digs a hole for you to jump into, and some players even fail to dodge and directly hit the electric pole. Don’t be careless. Encountering obstacles on the road, whether it is small gravel or large stones, is quite dangerous for cyclists. It is also recommended to activate the rear brake first, then follow the front brake, and go around the outside. If you are really facing a crash, It is recommended to use Judo’s body protection method, shrinking the jaw to protect the head, looking at the situation of the crash, and rolling forward or sideways to consume the forward inertia and release the damage of the crash. If your reaction is fast enough, it is not too difficult for players to fly over obstacles after leveling the pedals and pulling the handlebars, which is also very common in international competitions. Pre-match site scouting If you are not a landlord or a seasoned veteran, you must prepare in advance when you go abroad or on an unfamiliar road section. Even if you line up in a downhill one-stop array, you will inevitably encounter a situation where good and bad players are mixed. Even if you follow the car, you must pay attention to the front and back, The left and right sides also have time to react, and slight changes in an instant may cause damage. Small reminder: When using the rear brake, you must grasp the key of “holding” and rubbing slowly, instead of stopping suddenly, so as to avoid slipping and even causing the car to roll over.
The fit of the bicycle is the most important thing. Choosing the right bicycle seat may only be the beginning of the fit. You also need to learn how to fine-tune the bicycle to make yourself more comfortable to ride. The bicycle handlebar is a key fine-tuning part. By adjusting the handlebar, you can put yourself in a more comfortable riding position. It will even improve your riding efficiency and help relieve back pain while riding, so it is important to learn how to adjust the height of the handlebar. Tools needed to adjust the handlebar height. Adjusting the handlebars is relatively simple, usually requiring only a multi-tool or a set of Allen keys, or a torque wrench is more suitable for carbon fiber handlebars. Method The easiest way to adjust the height is to add or remove spacers. 1. Loosen the nut. There will be two screws on either side of the stem, use an Allen key to loosen these two stems (it doesn’t have to be unscrewed completely). (If you have a carbon fiber bike, you may notice that the steerer tube has an expansion wedge. Called a plug, this is non-adjustable and has no effect on height) 2. Remove the bowl top cover. Use a hex wrench to unscrew the top cover and a 4 or 5-mm wrench is required for the bag cover (you can buy a good-looking top cover and replace it by the way). 3. Adjust the height of the handlebar. The height of the handlebar can be adjusted by adding or removing spacers, spacers are usually readily available in 20 or 30-mm sizes. 4. Install it back at your desired height. When installing, you should make sure there is a 3-5mm gap between the stem and the spacer/stem (this will make the stem stronger), and this will ensure that the top cap has enough room to tighten. 5. Install the headset top cover. Install the headset top first, then work on the alignment of the wheels to the handlebars, preferably checking the manufacturer’s recommended torque settings. 6. Tighten the screws on both sides. Once aligned, try turning the handlebar back and forth, left and right, if the handlebar does not turn smoothly, you can tighten the screws on both sides of the stem, usually around 5 to 8Nm. If the rotation is not smooth, continue to adjust the headset screws. 7. Simple detection. You can clamp the front wheel with your legs and shake the handlebars to adjust. If the handlebar is stable, it is a good fit.
