1. Single pivot point system suspension Main structure: Single pivot point system is currently the most common type of front and rear shock absorber. The lever of this system only uses one bearing to connect to the frame, and the position of its upper bearing determines the riding performance of the car. Like Cross Country, the bearings are mostly at the height of the middle chainring; the bearing position of the freeride model is relatively higher and slightly forward. Advantages: lightweight, cheap, and easy to maintain. Disadvantages: easy to shake and easy to be interfered with by the transmission system. Technology: Most of the Single pivot point system adopts a compromise approach, so it is recommended to use the rear shock absorber of the stepping platform. 2. Linkage-driven Single-pivot Suspension Main structure: The rear suspension system of this structure is most easily confused with the four-pivot point system suspension because the two are the same in terms of the number of pivot points; but from the functional point of view, the function of this rear body is the same as that of a single pivot point The system is very similar. In this structure, there is no link connecting the main bearing of the pedal bearing and the rear wheel shaft. Simply put: it is a single pivot point system suspension with multiple pivot points. Advantages: good rigidity, no uneven load of unilateral shock absorbers. Disadvantages: It is easy to shake due to more bearings. Technology: If a rear shock absorber with a stepping platform is used, its performance can be greatly improved. 3. four-bar linkage system Suspension Main structure: It is a design method in which the bearing point on the chain bracket is located before the rear suspension. This is the difference between the four-pivot point system and the multi-pivot point system. In this way, the rear wheel moves on a turn formed by four bearing points. For example, on Specialized models, the rear wheels are vertically upward to absorb shock. In this case, the shock absorber must also operate independently of the chain. Advantages: extremely flexible action, no interference from the transmission system. Disadvantages: There is a bearing, which is slightly too heavy. Technology: Since there is no interference from the transmission system, there is no need for a rear shock support system with a stepping platform or just a lighter one. 4. four-bar linkage Suspension without sinking Main structure: It is a kind of Four-pivot point system suspension. In this structure, the rear wheel absorbs shock obliquely behind. In addition, its shock absorbers also have no reverse easing stroke. In the event of a collision, the shock absorber will immediately pull away from the chain guide bar after absorbing the shock, which will also cause annoying subsequent shaking. Advantages: No shaking, stable even when cycling in a standing position. Disadvantages: Need to do the precise adjustment, comfort will be affected. Technology: There is no need for a rear shock absorber to step on the platform because the shock absorber system has already taken anti-shake measures. 5. Floating link system Main structure: Although the floating connection system looks extremely complicated, it is basically a four-bar system without compromise. Its special feature is that the shock absorber is suspended between the revolving rod and the connecting rod. This design allows it to have fine acuity and a lower center of gravity. Advantages: high acuity, good transmission system, low center of gravity. Disadvantages: complex frame structure design is required. Technology: With ordinary springs, this floating connection system can perform extremely well, and there is no shaking when pedaling. 6. Virtual Pivot Point (VPP) system Main structure: This virtual Pivot Point turning point system is driven by two revolving rods to drive the entire rear wheel, using its cushion stroke to make an S-shaped turning motion. In this way, the shock absorber will automatically be positioned at a position without interference with the transmission system when stepping on it. Advantages: no obvious shaking when stepping on. Disadvantages: Need to be carefully adjusted, flexibility is not high, there is a slight kickback phenomenon. Technology: A rear shock absorber with a stepping platform is not very needed, and it can only improve its standing cycling function. 7. Single link system Main structure: In this single connection suspension system, the pedal bearing is connected to the frame and the rear wheel in a mobile manner, thus forming a mixed structure of multiple links and transmission links. The stronger the rider’s pedaling force, the less stress the suspension system will bear. Advantages: There is no shaking when riding in a standing position, and the body is stable when pedaling. Disadvantages: If the rider leaves the seat cushion, the shock absorbers will not be sensitive enough. Technology: There is no need for a rear shock absorber with a stepped platform because the system itself has almost no shaking.
Some tips for adjusting road brakes are not aligned? Many road cyclists are used to it. But this habit is very bad! It could be aligned in the center, but do you want it to be crooked? 1. Check The brake pads (or brake shoes) may not be aligned, please check if they are aligned with the center of the brake edge. 2. Release the brake shoe Turn the Allen key counterclockwise to loosen the brake shoe/brake pad in the caliper, adjust it up and down and level it. 3. Align Adjust the brake shoe to align the brake pad with the brake edge, and then tighten the fixing screw. Be sure to hold the brake pads when tightening the screws, because the brake pads will move under force when tightening. If it does not meet the requirements, please do it again. 4. Centered Stand at the rear/front of the car and look at the brake clearances around the caliper. 5. Tighten the clamp fixing screw It's definitely not good to be invisible! Adjust the fixing screws until the rim is centered. Many people like to loosen this fixing screw, saying that it can be automatically aligned when braking (for the safety of riders, please be sure to tighten it! Avoid the risk of loosening the fixing screw and the clip falling!) 6. Adjust the brake cable Fix the brake cable! Adjust the brake spacing! If necessary, loosen the screws and readjust. Although there is usually an adjustment screw for the brake spacing here, I think this screw is mainly used to compensate for the wear of the brake pads and achieve a consistent brake feel.
As a mountain biker, choosing the right frame is crucial for maximizing performance and enjoying the sport to its fullest. With so many different options for frames on the market, it can be overwhelming to decide on the right one for your needs. 1. Consider your riding style: When choosing a hardtail mountain bike frame, it's important to consider your riding style. Whether you're a cross-country racer or a hardcore trail rider, different frames will perform better in certain situations. The Carbon MTB Frame SDY20 is designed for cross-country riders who are looking for a lightweight, high-performance frame that can handle tough terrain with ease. Its T1000 Carbon Fiber Material makes it ultra-light and agile on the trails. 2. Look for durability: Durability is another crucial factor when choosing a hardtail mountain bike frame. You want a frame that can withstand the wear and tear of hard riding and keep going strong for years to come. The Carbon MTB Frame SDY20 is made to last with its high-strength carbon fiber material and robust design. Its Boost Ø12*148mm Rear O.L.D. and BB68 BSA Bottom Bracket make it sturdy enough to handle even the toughest trails. 3. Consider the weight: When it comes to mountain biking, the lighter your bike is, the better it will perform. A lightweight frame will make it easier to climb hills, maneuver around obstacles, and ride faster on flat terrain. The Carbon MTB Frame SDY20 is one of the lightest frames on the market, making it a great choice for cross-country riders who want to maximize their performance. 4. Look for ergonomic design: Comfort is key when it comes to mountain biking, and an ergonomic design will help you feel more comfortable on the trails. The Carbon MTB Frame SDY20 features an ergonomic design with a seatpost that is designed to provide maximum comfort for riders of all sizes. Its Internal Cable Routing further adds to its sleek design and also reduces the chance of tangled wires. Choosing the perfect hardtail mountain bike frame requires careful consideration of your riding style, durability, weight, and ergonomic design. The Carbon MTB Frame SDY20 is a great choice for cross-country riders who are looking for a lightweight, durable, and ergonomic frame that can handle all types of terrain. By keeping these factors in mind, you can choose the perfect frame that will help you enjoy mountain biking to the fullest.
1. Avoid not wearing a helmet In 2015, news that “a female college student died of flying without a helmet” was reprinted on the Internet, which made cyclists heartache. You must wear a helmet when you are riding because it is directly related to your life safety. In addition, it is necessary to check your equipment, brake system, lighting, tire pressure, etc. before cycling. 2. Do not judge the quality of other people's bicycles at will Don’t judge the quality of other people’s bicycles based on their appearance, this is a taboo thing for cyclists! Even if you know it well, keep a low profile and ride happily! 3. Avoid drinking when cycling Many cyclists like to drink a bottle of beer to quench their thirst after cycling, but in fact, it is not suitable to drink alcohol whether during or after cycling. Because drinking will first cause a short period of excitement in the cerebral cortex, then there will be slow response and sleepiness, which will reduce discrimination, concentration, and judgment, and affect the balance and coordination of the body, which may easily cause cycling Danger. In addition, alcohol can speed up the heart rate, increase myocardial oxygen consumption, and increase blood pressure, which will increase the burden on the heart. There are also express provisions for non-motor vehicles in the law.In short, don’t drink when you cycle and don’t cycle when you drink! 4. Avoid running red lights and go retrograde Cyclists must abide by the traffic rules. When cycling, they must not run red lights, go retrograde, rush, change lanes at will, ignore others, and make calls while cycling. When passing an intersection, slow down, pay attention to pedestrians and vehicles, and be courteous to others. When traveling in groups, walk in an orderly manner. To be harsh, don’t think that it is a non-motor vehicle. Security is fundamental. 5. Avoid speeding In the UK, a cyclist was fined £620 for speeding. Do not overspend during non-competitive cycling, master the speed, adjust the handle and seat height, and pay attention to maintaining the correct posture. When stepping on the toeboard, the position of the foot should be appropriate, exert even force, and pay attention to maintaining a certain rhythm, otherwise, it will fatigue the ankle and knee joints. Good cycling habits help safe riding! 6. Stop occupying the road, grab the road It has been reported on the Internet that a rider was riding on a right-turn lane of a motor vehicle and was severely hit by a car in the rear preparing to turn right. The rear wheel was crushed, the man was knocked out and the helmet was torn apart. Fortunately, people are not serious, this is a living lesson. When a motor vehicle turns right on a dedicated lane, you must pay special attention to the incoming traffic from the rear, try not to grab the lane, and ensure your own safety, and you are a smart rider. 7. Avoid Cycling when you get sick Whether you are cycling short or long distances, don’t continue cycling when you get sick, but take a good rest. Especially for long-distance riding, you should not ride the plateau with illness. High altitude sickness, excessive diet, lack of oxygen, catching a cold, and going to high altitude will cause harm to the body. 8. Try not to rush at night Many cyclists like to ride at night, but in the suburbs far from the city, there are no street lights. Even if you are equipped with a lighting system, due to unfamiliar road conditions and the uncertainty of vehicles on the road, please try not to ride after dark. The danger is everywhere. Riders who ride long distances should pay more attention.
Most people who ride steep slopes give up early in order to avoid a lot of painful expenditure on foot strength; The following skills are how to ride steep slopes. 1. When approaching a slope, use a small front chainring and a rear gear that is two stages higher than the gear you want to complete the slope; in the first stage of climbing, when the kinetic energy is exhausted, reduce it sometime earlier. Gear, don’t frustrate your attempts by missing gear changes. 2. Choose the route forward; most steep slopes have grooves or ruts, and you need to cross it on the upward road; once the route uphill is planned, keep this route forward. 3. Maintain a sitting position, and when you reach the steepest road, move your hips forward to sit on the forefront of the cushion, tilt your upper body forward, so that the front wheels can grasp the ground and have proper control (the body should not be too forward which will cause the rear wheels to slip), and do not stand up. 4. The last stage will cause some pain because sitting on the nose of the cushion will cause excessive use of the quadriceps due to inappropriate extension; but stick to it and keep this position, because pressing the nose of the cushion will cause The rear wheels to have sufficient grip. 5. If the rear wheel slips a little, don’t stop, simply tilt your upper body slightly off the slope to ballast the rear wheel and continue pedaling. 6. When reaching the top, most climbers will lean forward and cause the rear wheels to slip when they cross the top edge; when they reach the top of the slope, they only need to lean back slightly to keep the rear wheels bitten in the final stage. On the ground, you will become a hero.
When you are struggling to save money and buy a new bike, it feels really good to get a new bike. You fall in love with its beautiful painting, the wheelset that moves with just one step, the extremely precise shifting…use your free time to accompany it, and even sleep with it at night. However, as time passed, until one day, you started to ignore it, and your bike ran to you and asked you: “So love will disappear, right?” But you look at your friend’s pair of lighter wheels. Groupset, that set of faster gear shifting… Is the boat of friendship between you and your bike overturned? I don’t think so, it may just need a little maintenance, and then it will come back to you full of energy. Here are some common glitches to help you realize whether your bike is starting to slow down, and how to fix it. 1. abnormal noise in the bottom bracket Once your bike can be walked on as soon as you step on it, now it is replaced by a kind of swing between the cranks and a faint sound. The bottom bracket is located at the bottom bracket of the frame, and the direct PowerPoint of the whole bike: the chainring is rotating around it. As time goes by, the bearings in the bottom bracket begin to wear, and over time, unhealthy conditions will appear. Generally speaking, when to replace the bottom bracket depends on your riding intensity and mileage. When you step on it, you feel more strenuous. After a while, you will hear some unfriendly “creaking noises”. At this time, you have to think about whether the bottom bracket is causing trouble. After you confirm that the bottom bracket is faulty, it is recommended to replace the bottom bracket directly in this case. Replace worn and consumable parts to improve transmission efficiency. Worn bottom brackets must be replaced! 2. Worn tires Shoes have a great influence on clothing, right? The tires are bicycle shoes. High-quality tires can turn a slow bicycle into an amazing speed machine. First of all, old tires will be very weak and may leave scratches or perforations on the rubber, which means that tire blowouts can easily occur when the bicycle is driving. So, if your tire looks cracked, replacing it as soon as possible is the best option. In the case of a flat tire and a flat tire on the road, first aid is needed. At this time, the Beto pump that I carried with me came into use. The tires on road bikes have very low rolling resistance. Most of them are folding tires. These tires are made of a flexible rubber compound and have a high TPI (TPI: the mesh density, which is simply: Number of rubber fibers per inch). On mountain bikes, the choice of a tire depends on the place and the conditions you want to ride. You want to roll faster on dry terrain, and grip is your number one problem in wet environments. 3. The transmission is not working Do you have this encounter? You plan to conquer the mountains in front of your friends, but you stop pedaling mid-range. What happened? The transmission “strikes”, right? There are many reasons for the “strike” of the transmission. First of all, it takes time for the transmission to send the speed signal sent by the finger dial or manual change to the front or back dial, and then the front and rear dials will complete the speed change. If there is a problem in this step, it is very likely that the line pipe system is worn and worn. At this time, you need to replace a new line pipe system, which may cost you some dollars. If it is in other cases, it is necessary to consider whether the chain, chainring, and flywheel are worn out. If you maintain these parts frequently, their wear rate will become very slow. In this case, push your bike to a bicycle shop, replace the worn parts, and your bicycle will look new. 4. Upgrade your wheelset Unless you spend a lot of money when buying the whole bike, most bikes are equipped with fairly entry-level wheels. It is understood that novice riders may think that the entry wheelset is not bad, but the original wheelset will soon be “not enough to ride” after the entry. The wheelset has a great influence on a bicycle. The lighter low-frame wheels will greatly reduce the overall weight of the bicycle, which will help to conquer the mountains in your mind. The high-frame wheels will bring you excellent aerodynamic advantages and bring you unimaginable speed. And many wheels will respond quickly and roll quickly, so goodbye to dragging your feet. If you want to upgrade your bike without having to buy a new frame will make a big difference, then upgrading the wheels is your best choice. 5. Small abnormalities in the cushion Feeling wrong while riding? Are you uncomfortable sitting? As the riding time changes, your old cushion may no longer meet your needs. Choosing the right cushion will alleviate the pain caused by this problem. Many people are thinking about how to get better fitness benefits from bicycles, but they ignore the pain caused by cycling. Incorrect riding posture can cause various problems: knee pain, hip pain, back pain, wrist pain. This situation can be alleviated by learning from others’ riding postures and doing static or dynamic fitting (fitting is not a one-time fit, as the riding time increases, the body’s adaptability is also changing, such as weight and flexibility. Wait, the bicycle also needs to be changed at this time).
As one of the core components of the bicycle, the answer to whether the wheelset needs regular inspection and maintenance is obvious: If you want it to maintain a better condition and have a longer life, then it must be maintained regularly. First, through careful inspection, understand the usage or remaining life of the wheelset. If it is damaged or unusable, it can be replaced further, so that the wheelset can be kept in the best condition at any time, and you can ride with peace of mind. The first is the inspection, the inspection of the wheel system: 1. Bearing and quick release Is the tightness of the quick release normal? It is recommended that two fingers can not be pulled by force, if the original factory has a calibrated torque value, it would be better. When your quick release is locked and you feel that the wheelset can move laterally or there is a lateral frame, your bearing may have a problem; if you cannot rotate the wheel smoothly, then the bearing may be too tight or the inside may be rusted. In either case, you need to disassemble and adjust the quick release lever or bearing. If you are riding in a good environment, dry and free of sand, it is recommended to clean the bearings and re-oil them every 2-3 months. There is no need to remove them from the hub, just remove the outer cover, clean them with a rag and degreaser, if you have a compressed air gun, the effect will be better. If you are riding in wet, damp, and muddy conditions, and you are riding multiple times a week, it is recommended that you do these checks at least once a month. To check whether the bearings are worn, all you need to do is move them with your fingers and check for free rotation or friction. It is also recommended to check whether they have lateral frame volume, which is a symptom of wear. If the rotation resistance is great, it is recommended to replace them. Most rear hubs have two sets of internal bearings that need to be inspected and replaced, and the pawls and springs need to be cleaned and re-oiled. Clean and re-oil with the correct lubricant. Cheaper wheelsets usually use open bearing systems such as balls, which will require shorter cleaning and re-oiling and will require more regular inspections. Replacing these types of bearings is a relatively simple and inexpensive procedure. Note: Deep groove ball bearings do not actually need maintenance, just replace them if they are worn out. However, angular contact bearings such as Campagnolo and Shimano, commonly known as ball hubs, need to be disassembled for maintenance. Special ratchet structures may require special grease. 2. Does the wheel deflection? You can use the brake fast or the frame as a reference to check. When you rotate, observe that the space on both sides of the wheel has increased or decreased by more than 2mm, then your wheelset is not suitable. If you continue to ride in this state If it goes down, the deflection will become more and more serious, and it will bring certain dangers. 3. Is the surface of the spoke damaged or impact marks? Too high or too low-spoke tension will also accelerate the wear of the wheel. If any one of the spokes is loose, damaged, or broken, it will affect the rest of the spokes as an integral part of the wheelset, so it is recommended to check the spoke tension at a certain time interval, whether on mountain bikes or road bikes. In addition, this work is best performed by qualified technicians, and the correct tools must be used. If these tools are not used, the risk of damage to the spokes or caps will increase. 4. Is the braking surface of the rim smooth, or is there any deformation of the disc? Check with the naked eye and fingers for unevenness. Although the design mileage of the rim may be more than 40,000 kilometers, it may be greatly reduced if improperly maintained under wet and sandy conditions. If the sidewall of the rim brake is worn too thin, it will cause the rim to deform or crack under pressure. Whether it is aluminum alloy or carbon fiber, the inside and outside should be inspected at least several times a year. Check for cracks, that is, the braking surface is clean and there is no sign of damage to the rim edge, which may affect the correct fit of the tire or loss of tubeless rim sealant. For tube tires, check whether the wheel positions are correct and clean the tires regularly. In addition, it is best to use the original brake pads or brake pads recommended by the manufacturer to avoid unpredictable problems. Note: In addition, if the road bike uses aluminum rim brake rubber, it is necessary to regularly clean the metal chips embedded in the brake rubber, which can effectively avoid abnormal wear of the braking rim. 5. Are there any cracks in the tire? Is there any arc when viewed from the front? Are the bead and rim tightly integrated? Does the tube tire have a rubber opening, etc.? Before that, be sure to observe the recommended air pressure on the tires, and do not exceed or fall below the recommended air pressure, otherwise it is extremely likely to cause danger. Regardless of the tire system used, regular inspections are very important. If you use traditional-style tires and inner tubes, make sure that the inner tube is installed at the correct angle and there is no angle between the valve and the rim. For tubular tires, the most important aspect is the bonding process. If they are not correct, they will not be in the center of the rim, or in the worst case, they may detach during riding, causing serious injury to the rider. If you are not sure how to install tubular tires, it is recommended to ask a professional to help. For tubeless tires, replace the glue at least once a quarter, and occasionally check whether the air nozzle is properly tightened and there is no leakage. Regardless of the type of tires used (traditional, tubular, or tubeless), make sure that they do not show any signs of damage, cuts, or holes that could cause bursts. If this is the case, replace them immediately. Note: Regular cleaning of metal shavings, broken glass and small stones embedded in the tread can reduce the chance of a tire blowout.
The trend of using disc brakes on the road bike has gradually transitioned from the controversy in previous years to become popular now. Stronger braking force, more stable wheel fixation methods, and technological progress have reduced the weight of the groupset, which has led to the mass promotion of disc brake road bikes, and some major manufacturers have radically eliminated the rim brakes when they launched new models and type. There are many ways to install and drive disc brakes. Let’s take a look at the popular science, so that more riders have a clear understanding, and there is information for reference when upgrading or choosing their own tanks in the future. Disc brakes are distinguished according to the driving mode, which can be divided into the hydraulic disc drive, wire pull drive, and wire pull the hydraulic disc drive. 1. Hydraulic disc brake The principle is to use oil as the medium, compress the oil through the piston in the brake lever, and transmit the pressure through the oil to the caliper to rub the disc to act as a brake. This is what people often call “oil discs”; generally speaking, the oil pipes of hydraulic disc brakes are not affected by bending. Even if the oil pipes are folded to a more complicated angle, they can still provide excellent braking force. Most of the road models on the line choose hydraulic disc brakes. On the other hand, because hydraulic disc brakes must first ensure the sealing properties when using oily objects for transmission, hydraulic disc brakes have less force loss during transmission, and the force is direct, so gently pinch it down It can provide powerful braking force, which is also one of the biggest advantages of hydraulic disc brakes. At the same time, because of its closed system, the inside of the tubing is not invaded by dust, and the maintenance period is long. Compared with the advantages of hydraulic disc brakes, the comprehensive promotion of hydraulic disc brakes shows that its shortcomings can almost be ignored in daily use. The most important disadvantage is that on the one hand, there is not much advantage in weight, on the other hand, it is more troublesome to install and replace, especially in the application of inner wiring frame, which requires disassembly and oil filling, which greatly increases the working time. 2. Wire pull disc brake This is what people often call the “cable disc”. The brake pads in the caliper move by the pull of the brake wire to rub the discs and produce a braking effect. Cable discs have greater advantages in weight and maintainability and are usually cheaper than oil discs of the same grade. This is one of the reasons why low-end disc brakes will choose cable discs. On the other hand, when using the cable disc to upgrade from the clamper model, there is no need to change the hand change. However, because of the need for brake cables, the wiring of the cable tube cannot be bent significantly. When the fully hidden wiring method is now an advanced choice, the cable disc is almost invisible in the selection of high-end models; At the same time, the braking force of the cable disc is less than that of the oil disc, which makes many riders less confident when going downhill, and makes the film more difficult to adjust than the oil disc, and the probability of rubbing the disc is greatly increased. 3. Line pulling hydraulic disc brake The development of this product was made in the early stage to make up for the delay in the development of the hydraulic manual transmission by the transmission kit manufacturer. It is also aimed at many people who want to upgrade the disc brake but do not want to replace the manual change or want to neutralize the cumbersome installation of hydraulic disc brakes. A balanced product made with heavier weight. Its basic principle can be divided into a cable pull cylinder, which is directly pulled through the cylinder to connect the caliper or the brake cable. The former was used on the Giant model and has now been eliminated. The latter is currently the mainstream way of line-to-oil disc brakes. This design is close to hydraulic drive in terms of braking force, and is relatively low in weight and price, and is easier to maintain. The disadvantage is that it still can’t adapt to the full internal wiring design, and wiring needs to be considered. According to the installation method, it can be divided into flat clamp and a direct clamp. For the disc brake caliper, the early disc brake frame used the mountain bike’s direct mounting standard, which can be directly installed on the frame without a conversion seat. Subsequently, Shimano introduced the flat-mount caliper standard, which has been adopted by most frames. Used by vendors and kit vendors. Flat mount disc brake clamp Compared with the paperback specification, the size is smaller, lighter, and more beautiful. It is undoubtedly a good solution when road bikes are very sensitive to weight. The interface of the flat-mount clamp is more compact, which is conducive to the integration with the front fork. The biggest difference is that the screw is directly screwed into the clamp from below and fixed from the frame. In addition to the screw tightening method, the clamp has other structures such as tubing and piston The structure and so on are the same as direct mounting. Post mount disc brake clamp The early clamps adopted the design of mountain bikes. Two fixing screws passed through the clamps from above and fixed to the frame or front fork. Due to the different sizes of discs, large adapters were often needed. Increased weight and reduced aesthetics. Due to the small selection of disc diameters on road bikes, the importance of this wide-range adjustable design has been reduced and gradually replaced by plain packaging.
The tire is the only component on the mountain bike that directly touches the ground. Its change will directly affect the mountain bike's grip, road feedback, and bike's weight. Therefore, a set of suitable and excellent tires will make cycling more "simple" and more comfortable. Upgrading tires is also the most direct, simple, and "cheap" way to improve the riding experience. Of course, in addition to performance, reliability also directly determines the quality of the cycling experience. After all, no one wants to be "abandoned" by the tires in the "ghost place" of the village and the shop. So today, I will show you the relevant knowledge about mountain bike tires. 1. Tire width Tire width will be the most important mountain bike tire data for many riders. And determine its positioning (XC, Trail, Enduro, DH) by tire width, and choose based on this. In fact, this concept is not completely correct. What really determines the tire positioning of mountain bikes is the setting of the tread pattern and the related data of the tire teeth. Going back to the tire width itself, wider tires seem to mean better grip. In some cases, yes, but not all. The same type of tire, except for the tire width, when the rest of the data settings are consistent (including but not limited to wheel diameter, tire pattern, tire teeth, grade, tire pressure setting, rim width), wider The tire width has a larger grip area, which means better grip. However, this does not apply to different types of tires. Of course, the same product is not as wide as possible, it should be within a suitable range. Otherwise, wouldn’t the ultra-wide tires have long been popular? Relatively speaking, the wider the tire, the greater the rolling resistance, and balance and fit are the most important. In addition, the width of the tire also determines the size of the teeth. For the same type of tire, the larger the tire width, the larger the size of the tire teeth, which is similar to scaling up with the tire width at the same time. At the same time, the actual data of the tire width cannot be seen from the data alone. The rim matched with it is also an important factor in the actual data of the tire width. For example, the inner width of the rim, the rim with a hook, or the rim without a hook (of course the former has much more influence than the latter). Back to the data itself, there are currently two expression standards for the tire width of mountain bike tires: one is the traditional British specification; the other is the more accurate ETRTO value. Let's first look at the traditional British specifications. The expressions such as 29×2.5, 27.5×2.4, 26×2.6, etc. marked on the tire are the expressions of the British specifications for tire width. But in fact, the British specifications are not accurate. For example, the 29×2.2 version of the Vittoria Gato tire is actually converted to inches, and its tire width should be 55.8mm, but in fact, its tire width is 53mm (ETRTO value). The significance of the British specifications is to help consumers choose the specifications that suit them according to the environment and intensity of use, that is, most riders use tire width to determine tire positioning. But the author also stated above that this is not always applicable. The ETRTO value is the standard for accurately expressing tire width data. 2. Tire pattern/teeth As a "competent" mountain bike tire, the tread pattern/teeth suitable for the use environment and strength are very important. Because the tread pattern/teeth are the decisive factors of the tire grip, rolling resistance, and other mathematical factors. We can analyze it mainly by the shape, arrangement, and size of fetal teeth. The shape of the fetal teeth is the decisive set of the tire. Different fetal teeth used in different positions can be arranged and combined to achieve different effects. However, the author does not intend to discuss the fetal teeth, because each brand of fetal teeth has different design focuses and concepts, and the products designed are also different, so I cannot discuss them one by one. However, it is certain that the shape of the fetus teeth will have a lot in common under each major use positioning category, in other words, "all look similar." Maxxis'BEAVER, FREE FLOW, aspen, SCHWALBE Rocket Ron, and SCHWALBE Rocket Ron tires with XC positioning are mostly shallower, and the shape of the edge in the forward direction is more “pointed” to cater to the ground, which provides less rolling resistance and facilitates climbing, and Maintain speed. As for the effect brought by the fetal tooth shape, I will introduce a specific product as an example. Take the classic Maxxis DHF as an example. First look at the shape of the fetus in the middle. The middle tyre teeth are mainly responsible for “biting into the ground” and provide sufficient grip during riding. Some products designed specifically for the rear wheels will additionally consider “brake performance” (brake surface). The middle of the DHF adopts large particles of fetal teeth, which are arranged vertically. Provide enough grip, and excellent rolling. The tyre teeth in the middle of the DHF are composed of two shapes, the rectangular tyre teeth and the trapezoidal tyre teeth. The edge of the tyre teeth of the rectangular tyre teeth is inclined forward, which can better cater to the ground. At the same time, a certain braking performance can be improved. Trapezoidal tyre teeth can provide better grip, especially lateral grip when cornering. The side tyre teeth are very "aggressive" and tall and large, which can help in pumice road sections, the tyre teeth can pass through the surface pumice and touch the ground, keeping the bike’s grip controllable. The side fetus of DHF is also made of a mixture of two types of fetal teeth. One is a large-particle rectangular fetus with a high grip and can provide sufficient guidance for cornering; the other is to provide additional lateral and straight lines. Powerful “L” shaped tire teeth. The size of fetal teeth is another key factor in judging the tread pattern. It should be noted that this does not refer to the area of the fetal tooth, but its volume, in other words, the height of the fetal tooth. In most cases, the larger and higher the fetal teeth, the stronger the grip. This is because the fetal teeth can “bite the ground” deeper. This is particularly useful in rain battles or on muddy roads, so we can see that the height of the tires of rain tires is extremely high. But the size of the fetal teeth still depends on the situation, not blindly bigger and more grip. For example, in dry and hard road conditions, large and protruding fetal teeth can even be a disadvantage. Because the soil is hard, the tire teeth cannot “bite into the ground”, but the contact area will be less, which will result in greater rolling resistance and less grip. 3. Material In addition to the width of the tyre and the tyre/tread pattern, the material or technology used in the tyre is also very important (the technology here refers to the material technology). The same type of tire, using different grades of materials, its performance will be very different, the price, you know. Normally, the higher the grade of rubber, the softer and the more grip it has (Of course, it is not that the softer the rubber is the higher the grade, it depends on the products of each brand; at the same time, the softer the rubber material is not in all cases, the grip The better the ground, but in most cases it is). Different hard rubber and the soft rubber of the same tire (such as Shiwen’s blue line and purple line), the hard one usually rolls faster and has lower rolling resistance. But the soft rubber version usually provides better grip. But the softer the rubber, the faster it wears. Of course, the tires nowadays are also full of technology, and it is not uncommon to use different synthetic rubbers according to the different positions of the tire teeth. In addition, each mountain bike tire has its own unique technology to enhance product performance, such as adding wear-resistant materials to the sidewall to increase reliability and adopting certain technologies to reduce the probability of puncture. However, since each family is different, it is not easy for the author to make a unified discussion here.
