With a raft of cross-country, down-country, trail and even radder rigid frames being introduced. The humble hardtail mountain bike seems to be going through a mini-revival. As ever, buying a hardtail is one of the most affordable ways of mountain biking. What are the advantages of a hardtail? Where uphill speed matters, the direct connection from crank to axle, without some energy-inefficient suspension spoiling the fun, is the quickest way to get up to speed. Hardtails are often also lighter, easier to maintain and cheaper than full-suspension mountain bikes because there are fewer moving parts to add weight, service or build in the first place. Trifox continually refines the bike, and is committed to the construction and technology of carbon frames, it has become one of the largest online stores for exporting frames in China with the high-volume, low-cost, high-quality manufacturing processes for carbon fiber bike frames. Even better, Hardtail Carbon MTB Frame MFM200, as one of the mainframes of this brand, has been well received by consumers since its sale. Now the price has dropped to less than $400, so you can have a high-strength carbon fiber frame.I’m definitely not bragging about the value of this frame when I write this blog. When you see my explanation below, you will understand that it’s worth the money. 29er Carbon MTB Hardtail Frame MFM200 ➤T800 carbon Fiber Toray 29er mountain bike frame with BB68, the weight is only 1200g. ➤Features 3K Carbon Fiber Woven, harder and more textured. ➤suitable for seat post with 31.6mm. ➤Ultra-lightweight, strong, and durable. ➤Internal Routing and Unique Structure. ➤Ergonomic design provides you a safer and more comfortable riding. ➤Switch between Quick Release and Thru Axle at will, Quick Release Skewer and Thru Axle Skewer can be changed to each other depending on the style of Derailleur Hanger. carbon frame is usually lighter stronger safer and better than cheap alu with bad welds. The material of the frame is made of T800 Full Carbon Fiber, conventional carbon material. T800 carbon fiber composite is an advanced aerospace material because of its low density, good rigidity, and high strength. As one of the widely used materials for bicycles, carbon fiber has the greatest advantages of light weight and high strength. Its weight is only 20% ~ 30% of that of steel, but its hardness is more than 10 times that of steel. Therefore, the use of carbon fiber materials in bicycle manufacturing can make a breakthrough in the lightweight of bicycles, bring social benefits of saving energy, and reduce the burden of cyclists to a certain extent, especially when riding uphill. Not only the frame but now carbon fiber has been widely used in bicycle accessories, such as our Carbon Bike Computer Mount SBH100, MTB Integrated Handlebar, Carbon Road Bike Wheels, Carbon Bike Saddle CS100 and so on. These bicycles made of carbon fiber realize a high-strength and lighter riding experience and are also one of the choices of high-end cyclists. At the same time, this frame has eight colors to choose from. These colors create a very nice appearance, and it has modern geometry, so upgrades down the road won’t be an issue. The frame has been designed with additional focus on compliance – or even micro-suspension. They’re designed to take away some fatigue induced by road imperfections on an all-day ride. If we look carefully, we will find that the length of its head tube is only 48mm. Typically, head tube length will determine how low you sit on the bike: a racier frame will tend to have a shorter head tube, while an endurance bike will have a taller one. A short head tube means that the cyclist can reduce the pressure on his hands, wrists, shoulders, neck and spine, thus reducing the air resistance so that the cyclist can ride faster. It’s not so good for acceleration and climbing if your arms are too high, so cyclists prefer to keep the head tubes on their bikes a bit shorter. The spec is admirable considering the price. Although there are top-performing competitors that can offer a similar package for less money, Trifox would doubtless argue the Carbon MTB Hardtail Frame MFM200 stellar performance and pedigree at the highest level justifies its price. Overall, if you can stomach the price of entry, the Carbon MTB Hardtail Frame MFM200 is a fantastically fast and fun bike to ride.
What makes a touring bike? I believe most of my friends who ride bicycles know about “traveling by bike”, but we have a vague understanding of the profound meaning of touring bicycle. Unlike road bikes or mountain bikes, which have special functions to define them, at present its significance lies more in travel than in touring bicycle itself. What is touring bicycle? Wikipedia gives us a correct definition：A touring bicycle is a bicycle designed or modified to handle bicycle touring. To make the bikes sufficiently robust, comfortable and capable of carrying heavy loads, special features may include a long wheelbase (for ride comfort and to avoid pedal-to-luggage conflicts), frame materials that favor flexibility over rigidity (for ride comfort—though frame flexing can eventually lead to metal fatigue and frame failure, so newer frames are rigid), heavy duty wheels (for load capacity), and multiple mounting points (for luggage racks, fenders, and bottle cages). Specifically speaking，a touring bike is designed for multi-day rides where you’re carrying everything you need with you.Depending on the ride that you’ve planned, that might include a tent, food, cooking gear, multiple changes of clothes, as well as wet and cold weather gear. Or you might be riding between hotels or hostels and not need to carry so much kit. Traditionally, that luggage is carried in panniers mounted on a front or rear rack. Load-lugging capacity might be increased further by a saddlebag, rack-top bag and a bar bag. There are advantages to the more traditional pannier-centric set-up. Panniers keep the centre of gravity lower than newer and trendier bikepacking bags. They are also fixed more firmly to the bike, giving you more stable handling.This sounds very heavy and complicated, but it is an essential tool in the process of cycling tourism. Seen in many pictures or videos of touring bicycle, you can hardly see that a fully-suspended mountain bike or a hard-tailed mountain bike has been transformed into a touring bicycle one. However, touring bicycle is very similar to road bikes in structure, but there are many differences in details. A touring bike’s geometry will favour stability. It will typically have a long wheelbase and chainstays, and slack frame angles.The longer wheelbase also means that it’s less likely that luggage or a front mudguard will get in the way of your pedal stroke. A short-ish reach, often coupled to a riser stem, will give quite an upright ride position for comfort over long days in the saddle. Component Drop bars will allow you to vary your hand position as you ride and lower your frontal profile on a day with persistent headwinds, although some touring bikes have flat bars. Trifox Carbon Drop Bar is light, hard and shock-absorbing. In addition, the area is large enough to allow the rider to reduce the resistance of the body in the air and relax his arms better. It s always good to have lights on your bike, even if you don t plan to ride at night. Unless you plan on going old school with paper maps, you ll also need to keep your GPS computer charged up. That’s a very practical looking bike! The chainguard and dynamo light are very cool. You’re not going to be able to choose your weather on a multi-day tour, so a touring bike will have mounting points for full mudguards. These help to keep you more comfortable and cleaner on wet days. Of course, the most important thing in touring bicycle is security. Brake is the most representative safety problem of bicycles. Although most people still use rim brake or are more sure that rim brake is better than disc brake, it is undeniable that disc brake is more efficient in its application range.Modern bikes are almost entirely equipped with disc brakes.Disc brakes will give you more consistent braking performance, in the wet or dry, than rim brakes and usually more outright stopping power or modulation.Rim brakes are fine in drier weather, but you need to be more careful how you ride if it’s wet (and especially if your bike has carbon rims), allowing for more stopping distance. If it’s touring bicycle disc brake, it’s obviously more reassuring than rim brake. But the price of disc brakes in the market is more expensive than that of rim brake. Everyone has different opinions about the most suitable materials in touring bicycle. If we are looking for stability, we can choose steel and aluminum alu materials. Although it will be cumbersome during the trip, it is very stable and reassuring. An alloy frame can actually be lighter than a carbon fibre one at a similar price, although expensive carbon frames will always be lighter still. For those cyclists who want to travel easily but don’t have enough money, maybe you can consider trifox Carbon Road Bike Frame X18. It is not only made of carbon fiber T800, but also the lightest road frame of our brand, with a minimum weight of only 838g. From the details, the length of its Top Tube Lenght Horizontal is also the longest (577cm) in the road frame, so there is enough space to place the package and it will not affect the riding. From the details, two kettle racks can be installed at the bottom of it. Both the handlebars and the seat tube are made of carbon fiber, so your legs or hands can better reduce the vibration when you ride, thus reducing the fatigue during riding. This frame belongs to the Thru- axle, so you don’t have to worry about not tightening it like a quick-release frame during the riding journey, and you are worried about the wheel falling off when the riding vibrates, resulting in a dangerous phenomenon. If you are worried that this frame is too light and the center of gravity is unstable. As mentioned above, Traditionally, that luggage is carried in panniers mounted on a front or rear rack. Load-lugging capacity might be increased further by a saddlebag, rack-top bag and a bar bag. There are advantages to the more traditional pannier-centric set-up. Panniers keep the centre of gravity lower than newer and trendier bikepacking bags. They are also fixed more firmly to the bike, giving you more stable handling. There is also a question about the weight of the wheel set. There is a difference between tour bikes and road bikes. Cyclists who often use bicycles are usually prepared with two pairs of wheelsets to adapt to where they are going or the way they ride. Touring bikes of old had quite tight tyres clearance, so there was a limit to how wide you could go. That’s changed with newer touring bikes, such as the Genesis Tour de Fer, taking tyres up to 38mm wide and the Dawes Galaxy coming with 32mm rubber as stock. Both can take larger tyres should you wish. Wide tyres, comfort and stable handling sound like features of a gravel bike, but a gravel bike is designed around off-road riding, whereas the majority of traditional touring bikes are designed with tarmac in mind. Although you could fit knobbly tyres or ride unmetalled surfaces, a touring bike will usually come equipped with road-going rubber. Clearance to cope with mud build-up may not be as generous as on a gravel bike either.Of course, what kind of tires to use should be decided by what kind of road the cyclist passes the most. But on the whole, the bigger the tire area, the more stable our frame will be, but it will also increase the risk of injury. Why I would recommend lightweight frame？ One unmentioned issue in the touring choice is stairs: if you need to carry your bike up and down stairs at any point in time, a light vehicle– such as light aluminum and light carbon frame — is a better choice than a heavier hybrid.
The Trifox is only available with a Full Suspension Carbon MTB Frame, which partly explains the high price tag. Cons: Great geometry; balanced suspension; composed when it counts That frame is certainly the talking point here. The incredible paint job and full suspension design make it one of the most instantly head-turning bikes at the trailhead. But just how well does this fancy frame perform with cheaper parts bolted to it? Will they hold it back or is the spec well enough considered, avoiding it being an issue? Read on to find out. First, the cross-country frame that is just like Scott Spark can be installed with a 100 mm shock with 165x40mm, but if you install this with a 165x45mm shock. You can build it up with 115 mm of travel. Shock mounting hardware is included, and it is held in place by this spacer. At the bottom, you have room for a trunion mount shock. Two bolts are included in the package in case you are going for a trunnion-mount shock, this also is a line for the remote if you install this as a cross-country bike. Torque value for these bolts or pivots is written right on them, which is very convenient. They’re also fairly low, 12 nm being only for this main rocker pivot. The seatstay bolts are installed from the inside, 10 nm again. We should have called them the flex stays, because that’s the design of the swing arm of this bike, just like the new Stumpjumper or the new Transition Spur. What that means is that you have one pivot point down here, and a second pivot point connecting to your rocker, but you don’t have the third pivot right here and the seatstays have to flex by a few degrees as the suspension moves up and down. Talking about this little rocker, this is made out of aluminum, on fancy materials here, sometimes it’s made out of two pieces. One on each side connecting the shock to the rest of the swing arm. A rear brake caliper is a post-mount, it’s going to be installed here inside the rear triangle, and the hose is going to come out on the inside, that’s a pretty common design there today. Equipped with a Trunnion rear shock mount, bring us the most efficient pedaling design, asymmetric design, we deliberately offset the position of the rear shock, so that the structure of the bicycle can be smooth, and the carbon fiber can perfectly achieve one Linear structure, and when the rear shock absorber is locked, the cable movement space on the left will be reserved, so that the down tube can be kept unblocked through the rear shock absorber to the main turning point. Our boost frame can fit a maximum 2.35″ size of tire. The boost design can increase the space of the chainstay, which can use larger and more speedy flywheels, the design of frog legs is more facilitate, and it also increases the elasticity of the rear fork, more shock absorption, and more comfortable. There is quite a bit more room around the tire up top here on seatstays. Boost gives a 148 x 12 mm spacing which allows for the hub flanges to be further apart which gives a potentially stronger and stiffer rear wheel, and Boost 148 mm spacing in the rear, the Thru axle is provided as well, and gets a derailleur hanger that gets installed fairly easily, it doesn’t come installed from the factory. It is held in place by this tiny bot, and going to be secured in place with the Thru axle on the drive side you’re going to see the routing for derailleur cable, it’s coming out right on top of the chainstays which is something that I like, it works well with both Shimano and SRAM drivetrains. The BB68/PF92 bottom bracket it’s a press fit, not a thread. The seat tube, you already have a line coming up here for internally routed droppers, this is a 34.9 mm seat clamp which is not provided 31.6 mm diameter seatpost , because of this main pivot over here, you don’t have a lot of room to insert your dropper in the frame. Keep in mind that every dropper has an actuator at the end of about 2 cm. Frame at the bottom, this is not only downtube protection, but underneath here, if you use a 2.5 mm hex/Allen, you can slide the protection back, and underneath you have a holder for DI2 battery downtube. Thankfully though, the brand does offer it in four frame sizes (small to extra-large) with some decent geometry across the board. A slack 68.5-degree head angle should help provide a decent amount of stability at high speeds. To help create a nice, efficient seated climbing position, the Trifox’s effective seat tube angle is steep at 74.7 degrees. In short, this means each frame size has specifically tuned kinematics (that means slightly different leverage ratios, levels of anti-squat and anti-rise, as well as differing axle paths). As part of the brand’s Proportional Response concept, it is just the suspension kinematics that is tweaked as you change the frame size, but the effective chainstay length is no different. While all four sizes had an effective chainstay length of 438 mm, again kind of standard for a bike that is supposed to be good at pedaling. There’s plenty of room in the cockpit without ever feeling as though you’re being stretched out or forced down too far over the front, thanks in part to that 570 mm–650 mm effective top tube and steep 74.7degree seat angle. The tubes are subtly shaped and curved, with additional reinforcement added to the top and seat tube junction, while the top and down tubes meet nice and early in a bid to help bolster strength at the head tube junction. There’s no seatstay bridge, ensuring masses of mud clearance. Driving the rear shock is a one-piece forged rocker link that’s designed to be both stiff and strong, with the aim of ridding any unwanted flex from the suspension system and keeping the back end of the bike working as smoothly as possible. In a similar vein, the 74.7-degree seat angle (measured at your preferred pedaling height) is one of the steepest compared to its counterparts, suggesting a comfy seated position when winching up steep climbs. That raked-out head angle, along with the 412.9–487 mm of reach, contributes to a lengthy 680.4–762.2 mm front center (the horizontal measurement from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the front axle), which will no doubt contribute to stability at higher speeds. The 438 mm rear center is shorter than many other bikes with similar intentions. While this should work well for smaller riders on the more compact frame sizes, taller riders on the bigger frames may find their weight too far over the rear wheel at times (this is a large part of the reason some brands will now grow the chainstay measurement as frame size increases). The short back end and taut frame also make it an easy bike to flick about or loft the front wheel into the air with little effort from the rider. That means chucking it around and making shapes as you work your way down the trail comes really naturally to the TRIFOX MFM100, and you don’t need to expend too much extra energy if you’re keen on bouncing your way down the trail, getting sideways at every opportunity. These instances were few and far between on the medium frame, but taller riders on bigger bikes may notice this more frequently. And that’s not to say the short back end holds the Marin back, but a slightly longer back end (maybe just on the bigger frames) would simply make it even better. This bike will take on any trail you’re brave enough to throw it down. A few minor spec changes would really elevate its performance. It’s easy to spot the stretched-out geometry, relaxed head angle, and burly build. Look closer at the spec sheet, though, and you may need to do a double take. That’s because it’s jam-packed with the great kit, yet still comes in at a scarcely believable price (certainly when compared to its closest rivals).
Choosing a commuter bike is the same as choosing a lover. Choosing a bike that suits you can often go further and more easily than choosing a bike that you just like but are not suitable for. Of cause, the key to choosing the best commuter bike is ensuring that it is comfortable and practical for the type of riding you intend to do. In general, your optimum bike for commuting could be a flat-bar bike, for example a hybrid or mountain bike, or a drop-bar road or gravel bike. You’re unlikely to commit to regularly commuting to work by bike in all weather conditions if it’s a chore in the first place, so we’ve put together this handy guide to help you choose the best commuter bike for you. What type of bike you choose to ride to work will depend on a number of factors, including journey distance, terrain, where you live and your taste in bikes. To help make your decision easier, we ve done our best to explain how some common types of bike fare when turned to commuting duties. hybrid bike Cheaper hybrids usually come with rim brakes, while the best hybrid bikes are equipped with disc brakes. Disc brakes offer more powerful, predictable, and reliable braking, regardless of the weather, than rim brakes and are something you should look out for. Talking of weather, the best waterproof jackets for cyclists make a damp commute considerably less miserable. If you are a beginner looking for a bike for general use or are a dedicated commuter who favors an upright position in traffic, a flat-bar hybrid is likely to be the perfect choice for you. Hybrids are best thought of as hardy road bike that takes some influence from mountain bikes, borrowing their off-road cousin’s flat handlebars and a more upright, traffic- and comfort-friendly position. Like a road bike, modern hybrids are usually built around 700c wheels. However, the tires are often wider than a road bike’s – but usually not as wide as a mountain bike – allowing you to traverse rough roads and gravel paths comfortably, especially with the best gravel bike tires. Electric bikes: best if you need a hand up the hills As technology has matured and their adoption has become widespread, particularly in continental Europe, there’s absolutely no denying that electric bikes have become an increasingly dominant force in the cycling market. While the proponents and haters of ebikes will forevermore debate whether or not they have a place in the cycling world. This ability to cover ground easily really comes into its own when turned to your commute; with the helping hand that an electric-assist ebike affords – assist is the key phrase here. It allows those who live out of town to consider riding long distances to work, even with a heavy load. Folding bikes: best if your commute involves public transport Most often built around diminutive 16in or 20in wheels, folding bikes, as the name suggests, fold down into impressively small packages that can be stored just about anywhere at either end of your journey.The best folding bikes are also ideal for those who don’t intend to ride the entire way to work and plan on completing part of the journey by public transport – or, if you prefer the trendy word of the moment, those who prefer to go ‘multimodal’. While some folding bikes are built around larger wheels, they don’t fold down nearly as compact as their small-wheeled brethren, so some trains and buses won’t accept them, making these only really useful when space is a premium at home or work. Road bikes: best if you’re riding a long distance on roads Built for use on the tarmac, the best road bikes are for riding long distances fast. If you ride on asphalt roads or highways, you can choose the trifox X18 frame. They are sold as a bundle sale with handlebar and seatpost, and all of them are made of carbon fiber. On flat roads, the risk of carbon fiber surface damage caused by jumping or bumping can almost be ruled out. You can ride with relax. Some people may have to go up and down stairs or cross obstacles that can’t be ridden on their way to work. I believe most people will choose to carry bicycles up and down stairs. This frame is definitely the lightest road frame of trifox, and with the nice paint on the frame surface. Look carefully at its frame, which is very aerodynamic, and can well meet the power required for commuting time. Its head pipe is high, which is very comfortable for commuters and reduces fatigue during riding. While carbon will offer the lightest and stiffest ride possible, value for money (which a cheaper alloy or steel bike may offer) and longevity should be your primary concerns. If you do decide to go for a carbon bike, greater care should also be taken when locking it up. On the subject of locks, it’s worth noting that thieves really do love a road bike, so invest in one of the best bike locks. This will save on stress and potential heartbreak in the long run. Remember that if you opt for a particularly bulky lock you can always leave it attached to your bike rack at work. Finally, most road bikes will come with lightweight and fast-rolling tyres. While these will feel great on a fast Sunday ride, the best road bike tyres are likely to be far more puncture-prone than a sturdier tyre, and you’ll probably want to swap them out for the best winter road bike tyre for commuting. Mountain bikes: best if you commute on truly rough terrain The upright riding position and sturdy nature of the best mountain bikes have long made them a popular choice for commuters. Trifox has an ultralight road bike as well as an ultralight mountain bike SDY20. Both frames weigh about the same, which is very suitable for cyclists who commute lightly. This makes commuters feel light and comfortable during their journey, and even for ladies, they can easily lift it over obstacles. Both frames are disc brakes, which make it safer to ride even in rainy days. These two frames are different from the roads, and the choice of which frame depends on the road conditions of commuters. While a mountain bike’s stock knobbly tyres are great if your commute follows an off-road route, they will add a considerable amount of drag when riding in town. If you plan on using a mountain bike solely for commuting, we’d recommend that you fit slick tyres to unleash its full potential. Of course, no matter what kind of car you choose, safety is absolutely important. For people who already have bicycles, sometimes it is not necessary to buy new bicycles suitable for commuting. Perhaps you can transform your original bicycles so that you can be more relaxed and happy when commuting, which will undoubtedly save a lot of money. Of course, this is only for commuters who ride long distances.
The bicycle frame refers to the skeleton of the entire bicycle, which determines and affects the correctness and comfort of the riding posture to the greatest extent. Bikes that ride in a straight line, bikes that turn easily, bikes that ride comfortably, etc., are actually due to the overall design of the frame and the use of frame materials. What makes a good frame? A good bicycle frame must meet the three conditions of light weight, sufficient strength, and high rigidity. Is the designed frame designed according to the strength and characteristics of the material? Is the welding process mature? These factors will be directly reflected in the appearance, strength and elasticity of the frame. Another important point is painting. A good frame painting must be uniform and multi-coated. And the quality of the car paint can also protect the bicycle so that it is not easy to rust. If you’re starting with frame material and looking to pick a bike,Here are some things to consider: weight： Each material has different strength properties, fatigue curves and impact resistance. When you choose, you make trade-offs, and weight is only one aspect of it. If you are sensitive to weight and looking for performance, then lightweight materials are your first choice. However, if your goal is to be strong and durable. It can carry you and your dreams around the motherland, so the weight should obviously not be your primary criterion. Features of the bike： This is a topic that every rider can’t avoid, and if your bike is going to be raced, then a stiff, lightweight bike is definitely the ideal choice, and also narrows down the material options for you. Conversely, if you’re planning a long-distance or cross-country ride, and you’re going to be on the bike for a long time and carry a lot of luggage, durability will be a top priority. Again, this narrows down the options for you. Where you ride： Although where you are does not affect your choice of frame material, but consider that like a steel frame, it will rust in a humid environment for a long time. However the Trifox frame can make you ride comfortably.
Mountain biking is cycling in the mountains, so climbing has become an integral part of the sport. In addition to having a strong body and sufficient strength, proper cycling skills also help riders successfully tackle a variety of hills. Whether the bicycle can be driven forward and upward depends on two key factors: one is the operation and strength of the power transmission system, and the other is the friction between the wheel and the ground. The operation and strength of the powertrain is directly related to the strength and strength of the driver’s body. Friction is related to riding technique, the type of bicycle tire, the position of the center of gravity of the rider’s body, and the pressure in the tire. Technical climbing The same rules that apply when climbing steeper slopes also apply to technical climbing. The only difference is that technical climbing does not require the rider to find a suitable cycling line, as long as the rider can find a way between rocks, gullies or abrupt tree roots. Look at the ground within 5 meters ahead and choose the best lane. However, once you determine your cycling route, don’t change it at will. Long distance climbing All kinds of general cycling rules are applicable in this kind of sports, but the specific rules should be determined according to the difficulty of the terrain and the slope of the slope. However, in order to be able to ride the entire distance, the rider must live within his means and choose the appropriate speed and gear ratio. To conquer all the slopes, the rider needs to be physically fit, have enough strength, have considerable riding skills, and can adopt the right attitude toward the sport. In the beginning, some riders were not physically strong enough to handle certain kinds of slopes. However, with enough exercise, the situation can be improved. When you first start training, don’t aim at the whole mountain, start with what you can handle first, and then gradually transition to a more difficult step. In addition, remember, as long as the goal can be achieved, don’t worry about when. When you feel confident that you can conquer most slopes, you need to consider the speed issue. How to restart the bicycle on a soft and steep slope? Once the bike has stopped on an incline, it is not an easy task to start over. The driver must get out of the car, take a few steps forward, or take a few steps back, choose a suitable place to start again. The selected place must be flat and have high friction, such as a relatively flat rock. At the same time, choose a gear with a transmission ratio that is not too large, as long as it can cope with the current situation. If it’s too big, the bike may break down. After choosing the right gear, pedal the bicycle with the most powerful leg and hold down the brake at the same time. When the bicycle starts to move forward, put the other foot on the pedal, and then push steadily , accelerate until returning to the intended lane. Another good way is to park the bicycle sideways in the driveway, wait for the engine to start, and then turn the front of the bicycle over.
What type of mountain bike do you want to play with? What is the approximate budget? Do you want to be a pro-level competitor? Or do you just want to use it as an amateur fitness activity? You can choose the best trail bike for your needs based on your own budget. With all that in mind, one of the most important things to know about buying a mountain bike is whether the frame size is right for you. Buying a bike that doesn’t fit is like buying shoes that don’t fit, it’s very inconvenient. The following points can determine whether this bike is suitable for you to ride: 1. You can lift the Stem and the seat cushion to see if the height is at the waist. 2. When the pedal is pressed to the bottom, the thigh and calf must be almost straight. 3. When you stand on the upper tube, the height from the upper tube to your thigh should be at least 8cm. Ordinary mountain bike If you are looking for a mountain bike that can be ridden on ordinary trails, then this is your best choice. The biggest feature of this mountain bike is that it has an excellent front fork shock absorber and a high-quality body made of steel, aluminum, alloy, or carbon fiber. In fact, this kind of mountain bike has the characteristics that many riders desire. This kind of bike is usually durable and will not bring you trouble in maintenance after many years of use. The mountain bikes that are generally ridden do not care much about the weight of the bike itself, so its body structure is very strong. But it is not impossible to go in the direction of lightweights, like the ultra-light steel or aluminum body can make the weight of the whole car lighter, but generally speaking, unless it is a mountain bike for competitions, the weight of the car itself None of it matters. Full-suspension mountain bike The original purpose of installing the shock absorption system on the mountain bike was mainly to deal with the impact during the downhill race, but today, if you can have a reliable, light, and very comfortable mountain bike, even if it is not for the downhill race, is also very worthwhile. The latest mountain bike is made according to the conditions of firmness and comfort. You can ride on the bike all day without feeling very tired, so the full shock absorption mountain bike is the most comfortable mountain bike. Today, full-shock-absorbing mountain bikes are no longer limited to downhill races. The way to distinguish it is that if this mountain-climbing bike is dedicated to downhill races, except for full shock absorption, all its parts are specially designed to adapt to It is designed for strong impact during downhill races, so its weight will be about 10 pounds (4-5kg) heavier than a general off-road full-shock mountain bike. On the premise of seeking comfort, you will choose a mountain bike with full shock absorption to participate in any kind of activity. The off-road mountain bikes that professional players ride here are different from the stock or high-grade bicycles we see in the store. Professional players will choose lightweight and more efficient equipment in order to win. For this reason, they often have to endure a lot of discomfort, such as narrower tires and harder seat cushions, which are all sacrifices they make in order to get faster speeds. In the design of off-road mountain bikes, it is better to climb as fast as possible when going uphill, and not too concerned about the special conditions when going downhill or encountering uneven road surfaces. Professional mountain bikes are quite light, sometimes under 23 pounds (10.5kg) including the front shock absorber. For a long time, the mountain bikes ridden by downhill mountain bikers have been the same as those used in cross-country races, except that the front forks are equipped with longer-distance shock absorbers. But today, almost all downhill riders have chosen a full-shock mountain bike. Its shock absorber has a telescopic distance of at least 6 inches, and its weight is 10 to 15 pounds more than the average off-road mountain bike ( 20-30kg). The body used in the downhill race must be very strong because the impact force during the downhill will be transmitted from the front fork to the frame. Ordinary mountain bikes cannot bear it, and even cause the frame to disintegrate. Under the premise, weight is no longer the main consideration for downhill mountain bikes, but sturdiness is important. There is one of the most special types of mountain bikes, which are mainly used to jump over various obstacles, unlike mountain bikes that are generally ridden on ordinary mountain roads. The characteristic of this kind of mountain bike is that it is specially designed for jumping, jumping, twisting, and climbing. This stunt car is used to jump over various obstacles like blocks, stones, long tables, and even cars. The difference between this mountain bike and the general off-road vehicle is that its body is very low, and the players have enough space to twist on the car. Multi-purpose mountain bike This kind of mountain bike is designed for those who love mountain bike activities and often ride bicycles between cities and mountain roads. Although its body does not need to have a particularly strong body like a mountain bike, it still must meet the requirements of sturdiness and durability. The paintwork of the car body must be good to resist scratching, cutting, rubbing, and bumping in the city. You may also need to add racks and fenders because it needs to adapt to the road surface in the city. Its body is mostly made of steel, and aluminum alloy is also used as material, but steel is still the most. Touring mountain bike Mountain bikes are the ideal travel companions. Many people like to take mountain bikes to ride in scenic spots when traveling, and some even have little cycling experience. In any case, before deciding to plan cycling as part of your travel, you must pay attention to Some things: The first thing to pay attention to is the choice of body material, because no matter when traveling around the world if the body fails, the only material that can be repaired by welding is steel, so the steel body is the most suitable for touring mountain bikes. Strong and durable components are one of the necessary conditions. Light components are not suitable for luggage, backpacks, or travel supplies, not to mention that the riding time and distance are usually long in the case of travel, and endurance is the most important. Another important preparation before a trip is to carefully inspect the rim components. If there is no way to order a new rim set, you have to take the entire mountain bike to a good car dealer for inspection and refurbishment, check the flywheel, and replace the outer tire and inner tube with new ones, so as not to be damaged in the wilderness. suffering. You should choose a seat cushion that is very suitable for you and comfortable. It is best to test the ride for a period of time before the trip, not to test it during the trip. The material of the luggage rack should be strong, cheap aluminum products are sometimes easy to bend, and taller racks will be stronger.
As a road bike novice, besides the need to understand various road bike riding positions, the most headache should be how to operate the road bike shifting system and under what circumstances do we need to shift? With these questions in mind, today we will take you through some of the most basic concepts and operations in road bike shifting. I hope to help some road bike novices. Initial recognition of road bike shifting When you get a new bike, the first thing you need to know is how many speeds the bike can change. The product of the number of discs and flywheels on a road bike. The discs are the large discs on the right side of the bike that are connected to the crank, and the flywheels are the small discs on the right side of the bike that are connected to the rear hub. How many speeds are usually referred to as road bikes. In the end, shifting on a road bike is all about adjusting the gear ratio. If you have a road bike with 2 discs and 11 flywheels, this will give you 2×11 = 22 gear ratios, but this does not necessarily mean that you have 22 gears, and it is likely that different disc combinations will have the same gear ratios. The diagram below shows three ratios repeated 2 times, although they are made up of different discs, the ratios are nearly the same, so there is no difference in the riding experience. So the gearing effect is actually only 19 speeds. Bicycle gear ratio As mentioned earlier, gear ratio is one of the important concepts in shifting. Gear ratio indicates the number of times the wheel rotates when the crank or pedal is rotated for one week. If the gear ratio of your current cassette and flywheel is 3, it means that when you pedal for a week, the bike’s wheels will rotate three times. With a fixed pedaling frequency, the larger the gear ratio, the faster the speed, and the smaller the gear ratio, the slower the speed, but also the larger the gear ratio, the more effort it takes, and the smaller the gear ratio, the easier it is. Front transmission A front derailleur is a device that adjusts the position of the chain on a road bike cassette. The front derailleur is usually adjusted according to the number of discs on the cassette. If there are two discs, the front derailleur can only convert the chain from large to small, or from small to large. And the specific way of adjustment will depend on the specific brand of the transmission, although the adjustment is different, but the effect of shifting is the same. In other words, the larger the chain is adjusted to the large disc ratio, the smaller the chain is adjusted to the small disc ratio. There is also a common saying that “hang a big plate on a flat road, hang a small plate on a climb”. In addition, the front derailleur is usually adjusted by the left hand hand shift. Rear transmission The rear derailleur is the most frequently operated derailleur on a bike that many novices are aware of. It is usually the operation that adjusts the chain on the flywheel. The flywheel will consist of a set of discs of different sizes, and the rear derailleur will adjust the chain from the large flywheel to the small flywheel, and vice versa. According to the concept of gear ratio, the chain will be adjusted to the larger flywheel with smaller gear ratio, and to the smaller flywheel with larger gear ratio. In addition, usually the rear derailleur is adjusted by the right hand hand shift. Shifting in pedaling Remember to keep pedaling when shifting. When we shift, the shifting system needs to change the position of the chain on the disc to change, it only relies on the force and conduction of pedaling, the chain will hang on the new disc or flywheel. And we need to shift when the right foot is at the top of the pedal, when the right foot is pedaling forward, the conduction from the pedal will hang the chain on the new disc more easily. This is the most effective way to shift the gears, and at the same time has the least impact and loss on the chain and gearing. Do not cross-chain When shifting, try to avoid a big front and big back or a small front and small back. These two combinations do not provide efficient gear ratios, and they tend to cause the chain and riding direction are not on the same level, which will cause uneven force on the chain, and it is easy to break the chain or accelerate the wear of the gearing, so remember not to choose cross chain. Anticipate the road condition in advance Road conditions change a lot when riding, so you need to change your gears often and make a prediction in advance according to the road conditions. For example, if you ride with a relatively large gear ratio when the road conditions are climbing, the pedaling frequency will naturally slow down and eventually lead to a situation where you can’t pedal, so it’s best to adjust the transmission to a small gear ratio in advance before entering the slope so that the ride won’t be very hard. Combination of front and rear derailleur Many people will only use the rear derailleur, in fact, the front and rear derailleurs used in conjunction to play a greater performance. If the road ahead does not change much, such as gentle hills, or simple ups and downs, then you only need to adjust the rear derailleur to achieve more efficient shifting. If the road conditions change a lot, such as a sudden relatively large uphill, then use a combination of front and rear shifting, choose a suitable gear ratio for riding. But when shifting control the order of adjustment, generally use first adjust the front shifting, and then in the adjustment of the rear derailleur is more appropriate.
The handlebar of the bicycle is a vital part of the bicycle parts. Although it does not affect the performance of the bicycle, it will greatly affect the rider’s comfort and rider’s riding safety. The handlebar of a bicycle is the main part of the steering and handling of the bicycle during riding. It is also one of the three support points that support the human body when riding. Therefore, the handlebar is very high for the riding comfort of the rider. When riding, whether it is long-distance riding or short-distance riding, whether it is road riding or off-road riding. The first thing to consider is the performance of the bicycle or the rider’s control over the bicycle and the flexibility of the bicycle. Since everyone’s physique is different, it is also different when choosing handlebar specifications. In general, bikes with wider handlebars and longer stems are more comfortable. Of course, this length is defined according to the actual physique of the rider. No matter how comfortable the bicycle handlebar is and how scientific the design is, if it is used for a long time, it will cause a certain sense of muscle fatigue and cause muscle fatigue. There are many types of handlebars, so what exactly is the difference between the different types of handlebars? The classification of bicycle handlebars is mainly divided into straight handlebars, swallow handlebars, bent handlebars, butterfly handlebars, and other types of handlebars. Straight handlebar The shape of the straight handlebar is mainly straight, also known as the one-piece handlebar, which is very suitable for some speed riding, and the straight handlebar is often used in low-to-medium-intensity riding. Another advantage of the straight handlebar is that it can exert force very well when shaking the bike. Swallow handlebar Swallow handles are generally rare on speed-type bicycles and are generally seen on heavy-duty bicycles. Because the advantages of Yan handlebars are comfort and handling, especially when the bicycle is off-road, it is very important for the flexibility of the bicycle and the control ability of the rider. Butterfly handlebar Butterfly handlebars are most commonly found on long-distance bikes. Because the butterfly handle can improve the grip of many riding postures, it is the kind that comes from how comfortable it is, and has very good comfort. Of course, the types of handlebars are not limited to those described above, there are many. When choosing a handlebar, you must choose according to your actual situation, so that you can find the most suitable handlebar for you and increase your riding experience. For more cycling knowledge articles check out our blog posts
